Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would anyone happen to know where i could go get a nice sounding exhaust for my lil 125cc bike? ^_^

East 50s on Payneham Road. Tell Brian that Reuben sent ya.

Or try see what the boys at Pooraka track has on their wall.

Edit: This is the extract from the info bulletin 3.

Roll Cages

Due to the increased risk of occupant injury in vehicle accidents the fitting of full roll cages are not permitted.

However, the fitting of a roll cage rearward of the driver is permissible providing that:

a. No part of the roll cage is contactable by vehicle occupants when positioned in their normal seating

position.

b. The roll cage is at least 150 millimetres rearward of the front seat occupants when the front seats are

located in the most rearward adjusted position.

c. All rear seats and seat belt assemblies fitted in the rear compartment are removed.

d. The operation and effectiveness of the front seat belt assemblies is not affected in any way by the roll

cage.

e. That no person travels in the rear of the vehicle at any time.

Also, the car has to be re-registered as a 2 seater.

Edited by Eddyfier

Wooo

Put some new plugs in my car and theres a noticable improvement in smoothness now :woot::)

Still needs the oils and clutch to be done this friday, but cheering I could work on it for a few hours (I put the stock intake back on also) and come out of it with something positive, not really often that happens :)

Once the clutch is replaced, all it'll need is a touch up tune and then hopefully I can ease up spending money on it and just concentrate on driving it.

while I was out there I also measured my ride height after looking through the regency thread, it's at 345mm front and 355mm rear. In other words, it's legal height, and therefore CANNOT be defected for too low :)

Edited by AndrewJZX100

Edit: This is the extract from the info bulletin 3.

QUOTE Roll Cages

Due to the increased risk of occupant injury in vehicle accidents the fitting of full roll cages are not permitted.

However, the fitting of a roll cage rearward of the driver is permissible providing that:

a. No part of the roll cage is contactable by vehicle occupants when positioned in their normal seating

position.

b. The roll cage is at least 150 millimetres rearward of the front seat occupants when the front seats are

located in the most rearward adjusted position.

c. All rear seats and seat belt assemblies fitted in the rear compartment are removed.

d. The operation and effectiveness of the front seat belt assemblies is not affected in any way by the roll

cage.

e. That no person travels in the rear of the vehicle at any time.

this the only part i would be concerned about, what part of your body do they measure from??? im not sure the cage would be far enough back.

this the only part i would be concerned about, what part of your body do they measure from??? im not sure the cage would be far enough back.

I'm not 100% sure but I think they put your drivers seat to the rear most position on the rail (I'm not sure if the recline the seat as well) and measure from the very front of the cage to the very back of the drivers seat.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...