Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i would go with the RDA slotted fronts and rear but havnt heard a lot of good things about the QFM brake pads

just ask Vu and i am using Lucas Pads rated at 700 degrees and they work a charm mate

I havent slid off the cliff yet so they got to be descent right! :P they squeal a fair descent amount though but have minimized alot now after some hard driving... other than that... I need a fluid change stat!

I havent slid off the cliff yet so they got to be descent right! :P they squeal a fair descent amount though but have minimized alot now after some hard driving... other than that... I need a fluid change stat!

get the PBR racing fluid Vu

its some good shit

the only thing that stopped me from going with EBC green stuff pads

is the noise it makes and it also puts out a huge amount of brake dust

Edited by Krishy

just bought a honda

sorry guys i just had too do it it has more power a smoother transmission bling wheels and it's the latest model .

.......... best damm self propeled lawn mower ive ever had . still looking for the v tec switch tho lol

Hey Krishy, We shall do the brake bleeding on sunday. Depends how pissed i get saturday night will depend on the time lol.

Damo, Rotor comes off with a mallet hit from the back, then get a hammer and knock out the threaded stud. Really need a rattle gun to put a new one on. Also have the handbrake off lol.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...