Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol Cara mine will be the longest build in history :glare: i hate unplanned event when being strapped for cash

that being said i have all the time in the world to tidy up the whole car and do all the little jobs i had been putting off due to driving it every day

no Idea how many Km's on the motor it was out of a stagea but ive had the car since 123k and just clocked over 200k and thats 80k hard serviced properly but driven hard not hardly driven

will look into all building options so i bought a daily and will start saving and purchasing parts as needed for a forged bottom end and maybe even a 25/30

yeh its always cheaper if u buy ya own parts,thats what i did and saved a fortune!!!

just got my bill today for my gearbox rebuild, (after waiting 6 weeks) new syncros in all 5 gears n bearings, rings, new 3rd gear shaft etc etc

bloody expensive $3,800......more wasted money :glare:

im OVER it, sick of wasting my money on a car i rarely drive, its time to put it up for sale!!!

i know when i get round to doing my rebuild its gonna cost me around 30k at least :(

sooo much i wanna do hehe

with no turbo at all :P

NA dry sumped RB26, running 6 Mikuni throttle bodies :glare:

hehe

i thinking of 2.8 l stroker kit/6 individual throttle bodies with trumpets..........plus huge cams like somethign with a lift of 270 or something stupid

or

bring this on

supercharger baby :glare:

wow :P 3.8k would of been cheaper buying new yeah :glare:

I'm not so sure on the workshop you use either but that's a story for another day

it wasnt the workshop their great to me, it was the gearbox rebuilder they sent it to, "apparently they do the mitsubishi ralliart boxes" didnt explain what needed to be fixed and went ahead and replaced more than what they deemed "needed to be fixed"

oh well atleast i stronger gearbox now

hehe

i thinking of 2.8 l stroker kit/6 individual throttle bodies with trumpets..........plus huge cams like somethign with a lift of 270 or something stupid

or

bring this on

supercharger baby :P

lol Cara, if you could find a cam with that sort of lift, it would either bend valves as your putting the head on or go thru your pistons at the first crank of the key :glare: ......10 to 11mm is considered pretty high :(

Cara you could go this route?..lol

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features...r/photo_03.html

500 NA hp on restriction plate intake,, 800hp without ????

and it has seriously vented fenders..and plenty of room for graphics

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...