Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so, turbo people, looking at getting a new turbo for the s14, as the stocker is one its way out. not thinking anything massive, got it down to a garrett GT28R or GT28RS, just wondering if anyone here has any experience with them? ill probably end up browsing the forced induction forum soon, just seeing if theres anyone here whos used either first.
cheers krish, completely forgot about dale. shall have to have a chat with him. 34 turbo sounds interesting, thinking lag could be an issue with the missing 500cc though. just looking for nice streetable power, somewhere around the 150-160rwkw mark.

Hey Dave,

If there is nothing wrong with your turbo then I would keep it fit a boost controller and go see Jeff (SpeedLab) for a remap. For around $500-$700 (my remap was around at or below the lower end of that scale but SR's need a daughter board installed which the CA's don't and the board costs around $250 by itself) your current turbo you will make around the 190rwkw mark. I have a feeling that you will be near the limit of your AFM at that point and you won't want to go to much further with your standard injectors, but you should get there.

If you want to go bigger turbo then you will be looking at at least 550cc injectors (but 740cc are the same price and they will give you more scope for improvements in the future improvements) remember that with 4 cylinders you have to go bigger with your injectors to make the same power as a 6 as there are less of them.

You will also need to a bigger AFM; once again you have choices a Z32 will support around the 320-350rwkw mark but costs anywhere from $200-$300 where as a SII RB25 AFM will support 230-240rwkw and will cost you around $50, and really even if you go for a GT2860RS you won't be making 230kw without cams.

If your still after up upgrade i would suggest the GT2860RS as a GT28R (A.K.A T28BB) is only ever so slighlty bigger than what you have on there from the factory

I would forget about the GT2871R as it's too big for what you are looking for as it will support 230-240kw without cams and 250-260kw with cams but come at the cost of response (full boost at around 3700-4000 depending on cam setup).

Anything else just ask

Edited by D_Stirls
sorry im agreeing with the doh man, sounded like a steam train trying to take off at first and also like it stalled about 6times. crommies also terrible.

if you gonna go v8 go for elenor or gt40 :)

you guy's do realise that it's supercharged as well and that is why the idle is up and down like that.

P.S. i think it sounds absolutely TOUGH, but then i did grow up around BIG V8s.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJNM3sHcwBY...re=channel_page

See the front mount at 0.24

Edited by D_Stirls
meh i dont care if its got 2000hp it sounds terrible to me,

but ive always been a exotic loving anti v8 type of person :)

although i have developed soft spots for the 2 above v8 mentioned cars and shelby cobra's

I have a soft spot for 1967-1969 chevy camaro's... 1st series... even today they look frigging awesome...

-D

meh i dont care if its got 2000hp it sounds terrible to me,

but ive always been a exotic loving anti v8 type of person :)

although i have developed soft spots for the 2 above v8 mentioned cars and shelby cobra's

Well you'd hate this thing then cos' it has a dirty old V8 in it ;)

lol now that sounds tuff, has tt attached much like f40s which are also tuff :)

i just dont really like the valliant style box cars pencil ruler design and engines that sound like they stalling or have metal getting chewed up inside.

but thats me feel free to disagree ya'll ;) i drive a rusty dato anyway

Edited by Inline 6
anyone want stickers made up for their cars that have reflective properties? ie the stuff road signs are made from?

like so: 006.jpg

ill take a barracuda. in red.

Hey Dave,

If there is nothing wrong with your turbo then I would keep it fit a boost controller and go see Jeff (SpeedLab) for a remap. For around $500-$700 (my remap was around at or below the lower end of that scale but SR's need a daughter board installed which the CA's don't and the board costs around $250 by itself) your current turbo you will make around the 190rwkw mark. I have a feeling that you will be near the limit of your AFM at that point and you won't want to go to much further with your standard injectors, but you should get there.

If you want to go bigger turbo then you will be looking at at least 550cc injectors (but 740cc are the same price and they will give you more scope for improvements in the future improvements) remember that with 4 cylinders you have to go bigger with your injectors to make the same power as a 6 as there are less of them.

You will also need to a bigger AFM; once again you have choices a Z32 will support around the 320-350rwkw mark but costs anywhere from $200-$300 where as a SII RB25 AFM will support 230-240rwkw and will cost you around $50, and really even if you go for a GT2860RS you won't be making 230kw without cams.

If your still after up upgrade i would suggest the GT2860RS as a GT28R (A.K.A T28BB) is only ever so slighlty bigger than what you have on there from the factory

I would forget about the GT2871R as it's too big for what you are looking for as it will support 230-240kw without cams and 250-260kw with cams but come at the cost of response (full boost at around 3700-4000 depending on cam setup).

Anything else just ask

thanks for the advice mate. :)

fairly sure somethings not right with the current turbo, but ill wait til i pull it off the engine and have a good look at it. might just get it rebuilt and tuned.

cheers.

All this talking about ECU remapping has got me curious.

So, it's basically flashing the ECU? Everything on the outside/inside of the ECU is kept standard (eg. no chips soldered to it, etc) except the ROM data?

Would this mean, it's technically a way to get through Regency as opposed to having a Power FC or something else as your ECU?

All this talking about ECU remapping has got me curious.

So, it's basically flashing the ECU? Everything on the outside/inside of the ECU is kept standard (eg. no chips soldered to it, etc) except the ROM data?

Would this mean, it's technically a way to get through Regency as opposed to having a Power FC or something else as your ECU?

Yes and no... you can reflash an ECU with another set of firmware which may or may not contain an updated map...

The map is EEPROM which stores a spreadsheet of air fuel ratios and other assorted timings, and is done by using a laptop in most cases, and can sometimes be done without any mods... r32 gtr ecu is reprogrammable but the 33 and 34's arent iirc. Thats one of the reasons people like to switch to aftermarket ecu's like PFC's because of the ability to change heaps of settings..

-D

and, lets face it, chicks dig live readouts on the pfc hand controller.

i dont haz pfc, oldschool gameboy with LAN cord going from gameboy to behind the dash will have to do till the funds allow :P

scandy, 3 spoke rims are made of fail............ IMHO

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
×
×
  • Create New...