Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wouldnt of thought NA RB would have enough power to utilise the RON

i didnt wanna say it.

LOL that's what i would have thought?

What static compression do they run?

9:1 afaik.

just for comparison, my old toyota ran a cr of 10.5:1 and didnt have any problems on any premium fuel. cant see how the lower compression nissan engine would suffer problems.

my car lost power with the v-power fuel, she hated it ran like crap and detonated off her nut :laugh:

I'd be taking her to the mechanic in that case, could be many other things like spark, coil packs, afm ect ect....

Mine runs just fine on V Power, I wouldn't say it runs better (than Ultimate 98) but I definitely get better fuel consumption on V Power. But I'll use either, depends where and when I fill up... :nyaanyaa:

Well the issue is resolved. Found some octane booster in my shed, put it in this morning and she runs fine now. f**king shit fuel. :nyaanyaa:

Edit: I should add, it doesn't matter if the engine is forced or na, shit fuel is still shit fuel. Don't you think NA cars suffer detonation too?

I've got a new name for V Power: Vagina Power = its a c*nt of a fuel :laugh:

Edited by RubyRS4

almost there. intakes been hooked up, disconnected the cas and cranked it a few times, cant see any leaks, but ill have to wait til i actually start it to know for sure.

just waiting on a couple shorter exhaust studs, and then its start time. getting anxious now. lol.

What servo did you get the V-Power from Ruby? Was it a servo that is very busy? 98 ron fuel (no matter who makes it) will lose octane as it sits. So if it had sat in their tanks for 3-4 weeks because no one had bought it, then it would probably have been down around 95 RON.

The trick is ALWAYS buy your fuel (BP, Shell, Mobil) from a very busy servo. Tanks get drained quick, which always means nice fresh 98 ron fuel.

The same applies if you put you dont drive your car for a while. If it sits for a month or two, ALWAYS add fresh fuel, or at least octane booster before heading off again :nyaanyaa:

Supporting the above, I've use both V-Power and BP Ultimate in all my cars, and each fuel is the same as each other - never a bad batch because I always visit busy servo's on main roads :laugh:

I think I just encountered a bad batch. Still wasn't happy about it.

I always (99.9%) buy my fuel from BP near Greyhounds and BP West Tce, or Shell West Tce

Not sure if I should name the servo ... but its located near the brewery :nyaanyaa:

Edited by RubyRS4

See now that is a pretty shitty small servo - it wouldn't surprise me if the don't sell much 98 there at all and you got some old horrible fuel.

(probably sell plenty of 91 with the 4c dockets for all the dero's heading home to the western suburbs :nyaanyaa:)

Just a quick question...how do i get the static compression ratio of my car???? std rb30 but with a set of hypatec dished pistons??

a compression tester ? if its a built engine, or you can calculate compression based upon measurements,bore,cc of cyl head etc if the motor isnt built yet

how awesome is having 3,333 posts?

not because im a post whore and wanna brag about my fairly large e-penis, i just like having numbers line up.

that and a dollar coin will get you a few min at the car wash to wash your penis dave...the one that counts is the "666" post :nyaanyaa: ...lol

See now that is a pretty shitty small servo - it wouldn't surprise me if the don't sell much 98 there at all and you got some old horrible fuel.

(probably sell plenty of 91 with the 4c dockets for all the dero's heading home to the western suburbs :P )

Aww c'mon ... its right next door to the fully hectik Super Cheap yo! Thats gotta be worth a few extra kw. :nyaanyaa:

Had no choice, right near empty and I failed to stop at BP West Tce. :laugh:

that and a dollar coin will get you a few min at the car wash to wash your penis dave...the one that counts is the "666" post :nyaanyaa: ...lol

the devil is my bitch.

srsly.

ive got a photo around here somewhere...

... anyways, got a price on those work meshies i posted some pages back. bout 1400 beans. be able to sell my enkeis to make up at least half that i reckon.

:EDIT:

for anyone that cares, these are the wheels in question;

4902P5120746.jpg

went out side with a couple rulers, fronts will sit pretty flush with the camber im running at the moment, rears will sit *just* proud with a 5mm slip on, will require some rolling though, and a bit of a lip when i get the camber sorted. jawesome.

Edited by scandyflick
meshies look awesome, def one of my favourite style of rim to suit a skyline or a 2hunj

love VS-XX work or the Weds Kranze mesh - or BBS if youve got the extra coin you dont mind parting with your left testicle, first born son, and soul.

Edited by scandyflick

Ebay find:

A bit too "out there" for my liking. It'd be a cop magnet in Adelaide

http://www.cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-Nissan-Skyline

and here's a fail:

http://www.cgi.ebay.com.au/1999-Nissan-Sky...R34-GT-R-Purple

:dry:

Edited by RubyRS4
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...