Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after a couple more hours swearing and grunting, a 6 pack, an angle grinder, 2 scissor jacks, and a borrowed welder. the rear cat flange lines up, and has been fitted. awesome.

yay dave

somehow my work location for today got passed on to everyone else that needed to know except me

i rocked up to st marys depot to only be asked by the contract supervisor why i wasnt at morphett vale. seems the people that needed to be told got told sans myself

many lols

so Dave would half your problems be due to you having a S13 turbo on your S14 and not actually Andrews dump pipe, to which someone told you to get a T25 turbo on your car :thumbsup::)

lol. i dont even know anymore. its done. nuff said. but the first dump and front were waaaaaaaay too long. ill be checking the numbers on the turbo again as soon as i can get my grubby mits on a scope.

The turbine housing on the T25g and the T28 are the same so the dump will fit both. When Andrew made up the exhaust what exhaust did you have on the car? I know that the fir instance the only difference between teh CA and SR dumps/ exhaust on S13's are the bolting pattern on the dump/exhaust so when you fit a SR exhaust on a CA you ahve to mod/rotate the cat flanges so they match up.

On a side note a mate is flying me to Melbourne on Wednesday to check this for him and drive it back if there's nothing wrong with it (he doesn't currently have a licence).

http://www.carsales.com.au/Tig/UI/PagePopu...;autoplay=false

Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races

i disagree i think donkey kong was the best game of all time

dont forget to argue ca18 in there to :thumbsup: lota ppl argue they the suprior engine

proceed

Edited by Inline 6
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...