Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries. I'm not desperate for the gear oil yet but I want to do an oil (engine) change pretty soon and am still debating whether it's worth spending the extra on 300V over 8100 xcess.

repco just had that big sale on motul like a month ago, i stocked up :) not sure if they had the 300v though

Okay my head is spinning ...

I've been looking around for type M kits for an R33 4 door. Started looking at 2 door type M kits, but they seem to vary alot from simple lines to big bars and skirts and wings!

Has anyone got a pic of what a true type M kit looks like?

:D

chrono was a game on supernintendo and ps 1

http://www.levelupgamesftw.com/images/Chrono.jpg

the above statements are begging for another argument on oil :D it could be the worst sht in the world but aslong as your engine dosnt die and it charges the highest price ppl will believe its da bomb

i carry a inanimate rock in the back of my car to make it run smoother, wheres the proof you ask? well it still runs like the day i got it :cool:

although i would still recommend it :happy: cept for older cars like mine that need to go for something a touch thicker

Edited by Inline 6

How do I engine flush? Ive never done it and oils due in 1500 (5K intervals) Guessing its just a additive to pour in and wait till it drains out? Im running castrol edge sport 5w30 in the stag and seems ok. Ive seen people ranting of this Fuchs stuff in the stag section and its pretty cheap apparantly asked repco about it and they said id be going backwards...?

Should i do the oil before the dyno even though its not going be due for another week or 2?

chrono was a game on supernintendo and ps 1

http://www.levelupgamesftw.com/images/Chrono.jpg

the above statements are begging for another argument on oil :) it could be the worst sht in the world but aslong as your engine dosnt die and it charges the highest price ppl will believe its da bomb

i carry a inanimate rock in the back of my car to make it run smoother, wheres the proof you ask? well it still runs like the day i got it :D

although i would still recommend it :) cept for older cars like mine that need to go for something a touch thicker

Your theory fails in epic proportion. 1) The Rock is not inaminated - he is alive and kicking ass. 2) The Rock would make your older car run alot smoother with him pushing it out back.

the_rock.jpg

Therefore, "The Rock" that you have in the back of your car is a worthless imitation junk and does nothing, you might aswell have stickers on the side of your car, a GT-Wing and re-name yourself to Vin Diesel. :cheers:

617z1rAoi8L._SL500_.jpg

How do I engine flush? Ive never done it and oils due in 1500 (5K intervals) Guessing its just a additive to pour in and wait till it drains out? Im running castrol edge sport 5w30 in the stag and seems ok. Ive seen people ranting of this Fuchs stuff in the stag section and its pretty cheap apparantly asked repco about it and they said id be going backwards...?

Should i do the oil before the dyno even though its not going be due for another week or 2?

To do an engine flush you buy an additive and put it in with your current oil. Let the car idle for about 10 mins, then dump the oil while its still warm. Easy as!

If your going from synth to mineral you have to change your oil filter too. (I do it every service anyway)

If anyone is interested in trying ULX 110 then let me know, the distributor works with me so could probably get discount.....

martini racing oil ftw any day :D:cheers:

What in your NA? :) ohh I forgot your friends with roo and his blue mesh :)

haha jokes aside yeah I have had nothing to do with martini, infact ive only herd of it cos of boost worx....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...