Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard the trust type M dont need the fan blades to be cut.. Obviously you will still need to cut a hole for the piping on the side..

Or you could get return type coolers such as ARC.. But will be expensive..

Otherwise most cheap copies, will require you to cut a bit of the fan blades..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3398401
Share on other sites

Correct siddr20, the Trust ones don't need the blades cut nor do the GReddy's but I beleive they are the exact same just rebadged

So your sure that the Trust/GReddy ones don't need to be cut? even for the NEO RB25?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3399303
Share on other sites

So your sure that the Trust/GReddy ones don't need to be cut? even for the NEO RB25?

series 1 r33 here and i installed a JJR intercooler kit...didnt have to trim the fan blade and it doesn hit either...even underload

i believe the s2 is the same deal...although some people say that it hit, some say it didnt. If it doesnt have clearance you can always gently notch in a small dint in the underneath of the piping with a peice of wood to make it clear....someone i know did that and it clears now and no need for fan triming :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3399618
Share on other sites

Just a get a Blitz LM cooler or ARC, with return piping so no need to cut holes or fan. And it should run more efficient since it doesnt sit above the rocker cover or radiator.

ok, noob question.. Return piping?? I've heard ARC are sweet intercoolers, but what is return piping???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3399880
Share on other sites

Just a get a Blitz LM cooler or ARC, with return piping so no need to cut holes or fan. And it should run more efficient since it doesnt sit above the rocker cover or radiator.

Yep, BLiTZ M is good, thats what I have on my R32, well whats going ON my R32.

ok, noob question.. Return piping?? I've heard ARC are sweet intercoolers, but what is return piping???

Attached a picture for you noob :thumbsup:

Thats the cooler that will be going on my R32, you can see how the piping comes to the one side.

Return flow is when the piping runs to one side of the car, and up into the engine bay the same way the stock I/C piping does.

Abu

post-11894-1191906390_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3399965
Share on other sites

I've got the Blitz LM kit on my R34.

I'm at work atm so this is the only pic I could find.

ofvdy0.jpg

Sweet setup bro, what ius that thing just to the left (picture, not car left), of the intercooler??? Oil Cooler???

@ Abu.

I see mate, thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3401448
Share on other sites

I'm gunna jump on the wagon too..

I also have R33 GTST S2, 40th anniverssary (though pretty sure it's the same)

Was thinking of getting greddy 300x600x76.

Should I expect any increase in lag with this cooler?

If so is it worth changing to the R34 GTT one?

I dont plan on going crazy with mods for more power in the near future, maybe just a pod filter and I already have 3" exhaust.

Also any other basic tips would be appreciated..

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3401503
Share on other sites

i've certainly noticed more lag after installing my fmic - eventually i'd like to go to a front facing plenum to reduce the pipe-maze a bit and see if it helps. also am going to wrap my return pipe in front of the radiator in heat-proof shielding to see how that goes cos that pipe gets stupid hot!

oh also have a jjr fmic and just bent the bracket that the return pipe uses to attach to the engine so it clears the blades - looks a little ghetto but looks aren't my concern.

Edited by made_guy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3401566
Share on other sites

Thanks guys..

I am also taking into consideration that I live in Alice Springs and it gets DAMN hot and dry. I don't know how this will affect my car...any ideas? I don't think it will be too much of a problem, maybe just a little loss of power..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188467-fmic/#findComment-3402209
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...