Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm clearing out some of the larger bits and pieces from my garage as they are taking up too much space.

Stock stuff

Bonnet sold

R32GTSt driver side front guard, gunmetal, straight, paint in good condition with a few minor blemishes and light scratches. compliance indicators are still installed $75

post-2863-1192318735_thumb.jpg

R32GTSt passenger side front guard, gunmetal, slight kink where the tyre nicked the guard at a skid pan day but barely noticeable, paint ok, compliance indicators still installed $65

post-2863-1192318792_thumb.jpg

R32GTSt stock rims with shot tyres. I think they are in reasonable condition, there's almost certainly some gutter rash but i haven't looked closely in the last few years since they were taken off. $200 for the 4

post-2863-1192318901_thumb.jpgpost-2863-1192318958_thumb.jpg

R33GTSt front half of the manual tail shaft, i got it to pinch the yoke for my gear box swap, ended up getting a new one. $25.

Performance stuff

M's K&N pod. One of the big ones including the adapter to bolt to the stock afm. Also fits z32 afm. used. looks to be in reasonable condition $50

post-2863-1192282101_thumb.jpg

X Force 3.5 inch straight through cannon. Universal fit, brand new, never used (the plug has been used as it fit my current exhaust) $100

post-2863-1192282240_thumb.jpg

I'll post some more pics up tomorrow when the light is better.

All prices ono. Pick up only at Campbelltown NSW for the stock stuff as it's just too big/heavy/easily damaged for postage. pod can be posted at buyers expense.

Thats all i can think of atm

cheers

Dave

post-2863-1192318629_thumb.jpg

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189164-r32gtst-bonnet-guards-rims-ms-pod/
Share on other sites

pics added.

Dave, 2 of the wheels have no rash and are in surprisingly good condition, one has a very small mark on the lip and one has a bit of rash (i've added a photo of the rash).

cheers

Dave

i will have in a week or so, just waiting on my gtr ones to arrive. The top mount has snapped off where the screw goes through but i've just had a big washer on there holding it in place for the last 3 years with no problem

Where abouts in sydney do you live becuase i'll take that bonnet asap, if you could drop it off to my house i would be happy to pay $200, i am located near North Richmond, thanks

sorry whyte, the r32 and r33 front halfs are completely different. The r32 has the center bearing on the front half and the r33 has it on the back half from memory (or vice versa). The yoke size is different as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...