Jump to content
SAU Community

My Skyline Is About To Die

blitz r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

i have got my car booked in with my mechanic for next week so i hope he can find out whats wrong with it.

when my car is warmed up its starts to stall when i slow down or have to stop and its only revving at 400 to 500RPM and it will either stall or the revs start jumping back and forth.

my friend says to get a compression test done cause he thinks my engine is dying but could it be something else???

ive tried to look for a vacuum leak but its to noisy under the hood and it all looks fine.

it only started doing this after we put a bov on it and it kept stalling so we put the factory one back on and since then it keeps getting worse and its that bad now i dont drive it anymore.

i hope you can give me some advice cause im really starting to freak out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189207-my-skyline-is-about-to-die/
Share on other sites
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Mate, keep calm although I can appreciate how you are feeling now....

Have you hoist or jacked the car up and looked at all the hoses and piping? This happened to a mate's car too, it turned out that his intercooler pipping was not fastened tightly enough... for the purpose of the exercise, I would check all hoses / piping and then reset the ECU.

The thing with the BOV is that a lot of people get it for the sound etc without realising that if the turbo leaks, this can be a huge problem on the long run... check your BOV too, make sure everything is fastened tightly as possible... then turn on the car and let it idle for like 15 minutes... then take it for a spin around your block... this should solve the issue.

Also check your coilpacks too... good luck... don't freak out...

Just learn from this lesson.... don't fix it unless it's broken.

Good luck!! :domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 only blows hot air

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • Duncan
      Wires cut underneath shifter cover

      By Duncan · Posted

      You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • SeanR32GtSt
      R32 only blows hot air

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...