Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've had a clutch problem where my clutch would slowly get worse and worse where it wouldn't select gears.

It gets to a point where I can't engage gears but when I look at my master cylinder, it's still full!!

There was a damaged line but I have now since replaced the standard lines with a braided line that gooes straight from the master to slave. I have read the tutorials and tried bleeding the clutch but no matter what I do, I can't get any pressure on the pedal!!

It's almost as though the pedal isn't prooviding anny hydraulic pressure sommehow????

It just flicks to the floor from the spring and I need my hand to get it back again.

I thought there was just air iin the line but I've tried opening the nipples one at a time and nothing comes out! Even the nipple at the master cylinder doesn't have any liquid coming out of it when I pump the pedal..

What's going on people?? Any ideas?

PLEASE HELP!!

I had the same problem with my old R32, And it was the clutch master cylinder.Once we emptied it out it was full of shit and it wasnt functioning properly.However its not a major job to pull out and off memory the master cylinder is identical to one of the Nissans sold here as I was able to exchange it for a reco one...I am pretty sure it was either a Nissan Navara or 300 zx....I think they are all the same..And it was surprisingly cheapBest way is to whip it off and run it over to a place in your area that specialises in them..they will quickly find a match

check the pedal box as well as mine broke on me also...they are pretty tacky things just spot welded together.You will be able to examine that if you lie on drivers side floor with your head right where the pedals are you will be able to see the pedal box and how its bolted to the firewall.Get down there and work the pedal with your hand and see if the metal fram of the pedal box moves excessively...If its stuffed they are preety easy to change if you got a socket set...But a new pedal box you will only get from a jap importer...Hope that helps!!!!

Thanks mate, yeah, I emptied it out again and there is crap in the bottom of it so chances are, it's stuffed.... it's the original so it's done well! :-)

I may buy a new one, they are only $120 from Nissan...

Thanks for your help and info...

check the pedal box as well as mine broke on me also...they are pretty tacky things just spot welded together.You will be able to examine that if you lie on drivers side floor with your head right where the pedals are you will be able to see the pedal box and how its bolted to the firewall.Get down there and work the pedal with your hand and see if the metal fram of the pedal box moves excessively...If its stuffed they are preety easy to change if you got a socket set...But a new pedal box you will only get from a jap importer...Hope that helps!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...