Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ther have been a few thred going around about this with prices and details but basically, if you can do it yourself you will save heaps. i did mine myself, removed everything, got the broken studs out and put it all back together and all up it cost me.

around $75 for a new exhaust manifold gasket from nissan.

about $60-70 for all new studs, nuts and fat washers.

abit of coolant and oil that got let out from removing the turbo.

and a weekend of work. spacing it out so i didn't get frustrated with it.

and dont attempt this without having access to a right angle drill.

if you don't think you can handle removing the studs yourself i've heard the mobile thread doctor guy will get them out for you for fairly cheap.

i would be paying 1k but i'm fine with doing the work. i think you may find materials would come to a few hunderd after a slight mark-up. $200-$300 and the rest is labour.

Oh ok cool. I might get under there on the weekend and have a look at how difficult its going to be. I've got all the tools (except for a hoist) but I dont know if I could be bothered with the hassle of doing it myself :dry:

I've been reading around the place that a thread fixing bloke should only be about $100-$150 so thats not too bad - saves a bit of the heart-ache anyway!

Thanks for your help mate! :D

hey jon

las time i had mine done i contacted colin the thread man.

he's around your area i think, the manifold has to be removed and i supplied my own studs and washers (2 were snapped)

cost me $90 about 1yr ago

also he comes to you.

Edited by silver gts-t

Yeah I think it was Colin.

Good bloke. Roves around a fair bit. Very reasonable. I had a seized turbo to manifold stud. Couldnt get it even when welding a nut on the end..He drilled it out for me. There was still some thread left but he decided to put a helicoil in to make it more substantial.

Threadman

Phone: 0414 237 354

Address:

Mona Vale NSW 2103

P.s. The exhaust gasket is around $100. Turbo to exh gasket $33 (If you get trade). Colin will have the studsfor the exh manifold. The turbo to manifold studs are 1.5 pitch oneside and 1.25 the other. You can use the standard 1.5 to 1.5 ones if you use different nuts. Otherwise get those 4 studs from nissan

Edited by benl1981

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...