Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Gaskets

Nate

By Nate,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nate Collaborator

Nate

Posted
Posted

Ive just bought a car with a fkd head gasket.. water in the oil blah blah.. is there a way to clean out all the crap oil? Besides an engine flush? should i put some engine crap in there, and try to start the motor? im not sure if it was really fkd before i got it, so i dont want to seize the pistons up on it by starting it.. would this stuff em up if i ran it for like 10 secs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/
Share on other sites
Dj laBBy Collaborator

Dj laBBy

Posted
Posted

Hey the only way i can think about cleaning it out (without stripping the engine) would be to take the sump pan off and pour some degreaser or diesel or something to flush it. Don't start the engine unless you are ready to rebuild it, then try and put new oil in it and see how you go, but be careful.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-398489
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Degreaser IN your ENGINE?! That is one of the worst bits of advice I have ever heard! I can't even fathom why you think that would do anything anyway - the problem is water and coolant in the oil, and degreaser doesn't do anything to water or coolant. All you will be doing is disolving your oil and leaving more water to **** up your engine!

A more normal fix would be to drain the oil completely, replace the head gasket, refill with fresh (cheapish) oil, let it run for a few minutes, then drain and refill again with good stuff. If in doubt then refill once more with cheap stuff before the good stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-398921
Share on other sites
Nate Collaborator

Nate

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol @ degreaser in the engine.. thanks for the advice.... but i think ill go with JimX's idea :) Ill drain the oil, use some crap oil for now, then after a few mins, put some engine flush stuff in with it, let it run for longer, and then see how it runs after a full oil change with some magnatec :D Might even get a carbon clean, but i think thats for the intake isnt it? Also, the motor im talking about is a 2.8L dohc, above the head, there is 2 separate sections.. i guess these would hold the two cams, if so, is there any water jackets/lines running through there? because im thinking it may not be the head gasket, as the oil is on TOP of the inlet manifold etc.. and in the middle of the two sections above the head.. no visible leaks, but there might be where the inlet manifold hides everything, thats where all the oil is anyway, ill pull em off later, but im dying to know if water runs through there, after all, i paid $350 for a licenced 81 soarer, twin cam, so if i can fix it reasonably cheap.. i can use the cash from my old R31 that i sold to my dad, but still use when i like :D, and the cash from my laser that im using.. for a turbo conversion.. ,mmmm Boost..!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-399173
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Dump the oil.

Replace head gasket.

Fill with cheap stuff.

Run engine until VERY hot (you might need to remove the fan to achieve this).

Dump oil, leave everything open ie filler off, sump plug out, spark plugs out, PCV hoses off, OVERNIGHT.

Then the insides should be clean enough to carry on. Fill with good oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-399258
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

The thing is even if there is a tiny bit of water/coolant left in the oil, it will eventually burn off. Won't take very long at all in the general scheme of things. Blind_elk's suggestion of running it hot will get rid of it quicker, but I don't think it's too important considering how long the engine has been fed water/coolant up until now.

Be careful of overheating the engine if you shut the fan off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-399277
Share on other sites
Nate Collaborator

Nate

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks alot for the advice! :D Its much appreciated.. even the pricks at the toyota forums wont tell me shit, and the R31 skyline club are like (now that i dont have a r31) "put a new head on it and sell it" geeeezz... it burns a R31.. and its a friggen 1981 car! I am a nissan man through and through though.. but thats not the point :'(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18966-head-gaskets/#findComment-400188
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...