Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With Welding Up The Battery Tray & Underneath It

Dose Pipe Sutututu

By Dose Pipe Sutututu,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi All,

I kind of need some help, the previous owner of my car made a mess of the battery tray when he miss calculated the hole and decided to cut 2 circles next to each other to install his FMIC, so now I've got this giant hole in the battery tray that looks like ass. Furthermore, to make matter worse, he used tin snips on the hot pipe side to fit the home made cooler piping in. It's terrible as you can imagine.

Just wondering if anyone can re-weld up these ass of a holes and re-cut nice perfect circles for me and make it look nice an tidy from top and from below.

I don't mind home jobs as long as it looks good and clean.

If anyone can help and for a reasonable price, PM me...

Cheers,

Johnny

Edited by johnnilicte
WRRR Rising Star

WRRR

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hi All,

I kind of need some help, the previous owner of my car made a mess of the battery tray when he miss calculated the hole and decided to cut 2 circles next to each other to install his FMIC, so now I've got this giant hole in the battery tray that looks like ass. Furthermore, to make matter worse, he used tin snips on the hot pipe side to fit the home made cooler piping in. It's terrible as you can imagine.

Just wondering if anyone can re-weld up these ass of a holes and re-cut nice perfect circles for me and make it look nice an tidy from top and from below.

I don't mind home jobs as long as it looks good and clean.

If anyone can help and for a reasonable price, PM me...

Cheers,

Johnny

Welding a recutting holes could be a pita.

Have you thought about grabbing a die grinding burr and grind the holes out to the new round (or other) clean shape.

Easy to do and you could even do it with an electric drill instead of a pencil grinder if you don't mind side loading the bearings for a while. Given it is only light plate it shouldn't hurt the drill much if at all.

If you go down this path I would suggest spend a bit of time taping joints etc where the grinds may end up. Once they get stuck in a join etc you will never get them out and they will rust leaving a shitty looking mark.

If the holes work out a bit oversize just make up a rubber sealing gasket or run in some pinchweld edging and make it look like that was how it was meant to be

Cheers

Edited by WRRR
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Well legally tany hole cut in that area must be reinforced to return the rigidity back to that section of the car, so if you are willing to have someone weld in a reinforcement plate that has a clean hole in it then you are also less likely to encounter any stife from it if one day you go to engineer the car.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

ok so here is what i would do if i was to keep that piping design.

Remove the pipe, weld in a patch panel of 0.9mm body steel, from the underside of the chassis. Then make a new hole for the piping around 3.5" and slightly forward as it seems to be rubbing on the front section. test fit to make sure all is smooth and no fouling.

Then, i would paint both sides of the patch with an etch primer then some chassis black paint.

get some cardboard and trace out a piece that will cover the battery tray right the way under the guard mount, all the way to the wheel well and back to the chassis rail towards the centre of the car.

Use that piece to cut out a Flat sheet of 2mm polished alloy so you can cover the entire area. mount that with screws into teh old tray. then you can cut a matching hole in that from underneath to match the bottom hole.

use that alloy sheet to remount those wires, install a catch can, radiator over flow.... etc etc etc

------------------------------------

If you want it done as cheap as possible, you could follow the above, then cut out your patch panel and the patch, needs to me no more than 1mm gap all around, then just take it somewhere to get tig welded up, might cost you $50 to weld it depending on how good your cutting and patch is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Rezz
      2001 R34DE

      By Rezz · Posted

      Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...