Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

getting my timing belt replaced at chapman and chapman have heard good things about them.Quoted at $300 -$380 i will keep u guys postred to let u know of their work cos we all know it is hard to find a reliable /cheap performance mechanic.Any info on this and other mechanics or even this job,will probably help heaps of brizzy peoples out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

What happened with the update from Chapman and Chapman? They did the supposed "RWC and safety certificate" on my car when we bought it and since then, I haven't been impressed. My car has been rooted since the day I got it. If they had half a brain they could have picked up some of the problems.

Anyway, now to Gavin. My car goes down there for everything. Apart from the fact that I'm about as mechanical as a potatoe, he's the best damn mechanic I've heard of. As 4 Doorz said, he doesn't do anything that's not necessary but still warns you if something needs doin. I've just got my timing belt, disks machined and car data streamed for $364. Can't beat that. That's using a genuine bonified Nissan timing belt too :D

I know Gavins at laborador but I'd drive that far for good service and a mechanic that knows what he's doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/#findComment-418043
Share on other sites

chapman and chapman came in at the quoted price.And as far as timing belts go i dont really think u can **** them unless you are very incompetent.I had a mate at the same time get some work done,power steering leaking he has a shit hot skyline you will see it on a cruise some day (nismo blue colour ).They somehoe managed to rebuild his power sreering pump so that under no power(foot off accelerator )and trying to do a u turn the car turns itself off ,he is pissed and is taking it back.After talkinf to other people they said "mr chapman is an arrogant ****er who lacks telephone skills and i would have to agree he is very short.I like to feel comfortable when i spend money somewhere i think he was a bit short kind of like he was wasting his time doing the job.But on the other hand he has proven his tuning abilities on other mates cars and it just appears it has all got to his head and rather than earning a living it seems he is living a lifestyle.NISMO GIRL so this is what i think...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/#findComment-418344
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest silver32t

actually doing a timing belt u can **** it up but if u take your time and concerntrate on what u are doing then there shouldnt be a problem. I have heard a fair bit about gavid wood and have driven past there afew times and seen afew skylines there. Pretty much all good things i have heard so something to think about for gold coast based people!! Wat about Sub Zero??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/#findComment-431036
Share on other sites

i stood at teh count at sub zero for 15mins and heaps of their employees ignored me. i was told they dont want to know you unless you have a car with 500hp or 500million dollars to spend. i also spoke to them on the phone and was told turbo cars dont need cold air induction, but rather a sub zero intercooler. i laughed out loud in his ear and hung up on his stupid ass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/#findComment-434366
Share on other sites

no no no .i mean if you wanted to know more or see other peoples designs on this forum.I am a strong believer in cold air intake ,i made one out of the old air box from my r33,i used the top half and created a little room and used the top half of the airbox as the cold air scoop.I am interested what u have discovered though!Cheeky.....huh.I have also done some experimenting with cold air pipes directed directly at the turbo...huh!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18986-timing-belt/#findComment-435402
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...