Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just trying to tweak the position of my GTR pump so it doesnt sound like a hive of bees.

It is really tight in there. There seems hardly enough room to have any gap the whole way round the pump and the relief valve piece at the top. It seems inevitable that it will touch the tank. I'm thinking this might be the reason so many people complain of noisy pumps.

Is it just a matter of bending the bracket and hopefully leaving like 1 or 2mm around the pump - though it could rock back and forth that much!

I have rotated the pump and tried to bend the bracket a bit.

Anyone have any trade secrets??!

Edited by benl1981

Thanks silverbullet - so it is possible :turned:

I have a sedan - I wonder if the tank is the same.

Here is a pic. DO you have any pics of yours in the tank silver? I can slot it in ok just seems like it will definately interfere with the tank somewhere.

PS> Phot was taken before I slotted the bracket right in.

ALSO - Other question regarding hose clamps on the 8mm Fuel line. The clamps I got are new versions of the factory screw up clamps. However even if I tighten them right up you can still rotate the hose by hand on the fitting if you turn fairly had. I thought they would clamp with more pressure - Is this normal though. The clamps I used were similar but not quite as robust looking as the one pictured

post-11777-1193140683_thumb.jpg

post-11777-1193143150_thumb.jpg

Edited by benl1981

I actually ended up taking the hose clamp off mine, as it created more problems that it was worth. Ive found that if its slotted into the bracket properly, the hose and the bottom part of the bracket holds the pump in fine. I opened it up about 2 weeks ago. after its been in for a few months, and it hasn't moved at all.

And no I dont have a pic of it sorry.

So you didn't even cable tie it? I cut off the base of the bracket. Did you? I might just cable tie the pump. The hose clamp is a bit of a pain.

Do you have much trouble getting the lid back on with the seal in there?

My new seal is busted now. Was swollen as soon as I oopened it. It might be because there was a hole in a fuel line that could have let some air in I guess??

Edited by benl1981

hey this is your other one.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...amp;hl=GTR+pump

I thought u probably got it sorted?.

No, see I didnt cut off the bottom. You are probably going to have to use the hoseclamp now to be safe. You will just need to re-position the clamp a few times, till it allows you to slot it in properly.

if u can get ur hands on another cradle cheap. from a wrecked R33. just use that. just modify the rubber at the bottom a bit. the pump will sit in the cradle on a bit of a slant, but it will work fine, and no need for clamps :turned:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...