Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nuts! What about front ? Rubbing anywhere ? :D

17x9.5+18 driftek on the front.

10/8 coilovers on full hard take care of any scrubbing issues. rear guards are pumped as much as possible without buckling.

still some slight scrubbing issues on the inner guard but the hammer will sort that.

well i have 17*9 + 20 and they sit out of the guards a fair bit. I'm running 235/45/17.

an extra .5 inch would make it .25" on either side of the wheel (6.4mm) then the +18 offset would make it sit 2mm more outwards (compared to mine). So it would be a total of 8mm more than mine.

th_08102007307.jpg

Also, being 18" instead of 17" would make them closer to the arch in terms of diameter.

Nothing a bit of guard pumpage and tyre stretch won't fix.

Edited by daisu
  • 1 year later...

I've trial fitted some 17 x 9 +10 Work Meisters (F = 215/45/17, R= 225/45/17) from a mate who is selling them. I love the look of them on the car :( , but just a little concerned about how much rolling/pumping of the guards will need to be done, primarily to the rear with the door aligning so close to the guard. Currently I'm only getting some light scrubbing on the rear with a bit of aggressive driving. How have you guys gone with rolling/flaring of the rear? much paint cracked? or what are yours thoughts as in would I be better off going for some different rims with a better offset?

post-6925-1236476838_thumb.jpgpost-6925-1236476869_thumb.jpg

I've trial fitted some 17 x 9 +10 Work Meisters (F = 215/45/17, R= 225/45/17) from a mate who is selling them. I love the look of them on the car :D , but just a little concerned about how much rolling/pumping of the guards will need to be done, primarily to the rear with the door aligning so close to the guard. Currently I'm only getting some light scrubbing on the rear with a bit of aggressive driving. How have you guys gone with rolling/flaring of the rear? much paint cracked? or what are yours thoughts as in would I be better off going for some different rims with a better offset?

post-6925-1236476838_thumb.jpgpost-6925-1236476869_thumb.jpg

He lives! :D

Edited by konect
haha sure do ryan! Gave up on the car scene for awhile with other interests but did a deca day recently and feeling the bug again.. :P

Got your ceffy on the road and registered yet?

As of Tuesday...YES!! :wave:

Check out my members ride thread. Will post new offset pics after the w/e.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...