Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was under the impression that the stock cooler piping was 2.5 inch ID (63mm).

I got a piping kit for an fmic, and measured the piping to be 2.25 inch ID (~57mm)

I thought this might be the wrong kit, so i measured my stock 33 smic inlets, and the leftover pipes from the R34smic upgrade. They measure 2.25 inch ID.

So, what size cooler piping is normal for the fmic kit for R33? Has anyone bothered to measure? Or just assume, as I did, that its 2.5 inch?

the hot side is often smaller than std but the cooler side is larger. i know on the big sr20 kits (like on our car previous) the hot side is usually around 57mm and the cool side is 70 or 80mm depending on kit.

its the just jap type 2 kit. it's supposed to be tube and fin, but i have a feeling they gave me the wrong cooler. looks like bar and plate to me. and also measures 600x280. i'm currently waiting for a reply about that. here are pics of the cooler they gave me

the piping comes in a seperate box, and it looks to be the correct shape for R33. but the diameter threw me off. after measuring my stock pipes, i'm not sure what size its supposed to be now. has anyone actually measured theirs?

yeah the piping kit looks correct for r33. i havent tried fitting anything yet, but it's basically the same shape as the others ive seen.

i just spoke to just jap, and they told me the piping kit is 2.25 on the type 2 (greddy copy) in keeping with the stock piping size.

they also said the new type 2 coolers are all bar and plate. they found a tube and fin in stock for me to pick up.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Yeah thats the general consensus between the 2.

I opted for the bar and plate. I'm using the stock turbo, as if flow is going to be hugely affected on the low flow a stocker pushes. Plus I'd rather have the better cooling side of things. Up to you really.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Other way round. bar and plate is cheap to make and hence is used more here in these types of kits.... all the better cores are a tube and fin type design.

so tube and fin would be a better choice? coz thats what i was going with

nissan smic's and gtr coolers are tube and fin. as well as the hks etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

:) yes i see

well i measured my stock cooler piping. the one that joins to the standard crossover pipe. it seems to be 2.25 inch.

so i guess the same size (2.25") fmic piping on a stock turbo setup is probably the way to go.

updated the link with pics of the tube and fin cooler from just jap.

http://tony.ikkon.com.au/fmic/ - (scroll down for tube and fin)

looks ok to me. what do you think?

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 1 month later...

fitted the cooler. drives nice. no added lag. still as responsive. feels like it pulls a bit harder.

i'm thinking it'll benefit from another tune. what do you guys think?

here's how it turned out.

post-29392-1197430267_thumb.jpg post-29392-1197430284_thumb.jpg

thanks man :(

the reo bar was easy. i just cut 2 small wedges out of each side of the bottom section. after i sprayed it black, you wouldnt even notice it's been cut.

the front bar needed a bit more attention around the cooler piping, but all in all, it was just a matter of patience.

Edited by Munkyb0y

lol. depends on the bar too i guess. does yours have a huge opening for the cooler? also, i hung my cooler from a single bracket in the centre, off my radiator support. the ones with the 2 mounting points that bolt up to the reo, sit alot more forward, so would require alot more cutting of the reo bar.

i managed to squeeze a cold air intake pipe just above the cooler piping in the passenger side opening (it's the blue rectangle-ish thing). i wish there was more room, but thats all i've got to work with there.

better than nothing i guess.

post-29392-1197602578_thumb.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...