Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a little motor on the aircon unit that directs the airflow, to fix it you have to take the dash off, it's not an expensive part but a pain in the ass to replace! I believe there was a guide on here some time ago with how to do it; a search might turn up some results

It's a little motor on the aircon unit that directs the airflow, to fix it you have to take the dash off, it's not an expensive part but a pain in the ass to replace! I believe there was a guide on here some time ago with how to do it; a search might turn up some results

Oh that wat it was, you could here the slippin al the time hey, cheers for that mate!

yeah, recently had to change.

If you've got thin arms.

You'll be able to do it without taking the dash apart.

I did it through taking out my glove box.

If you know the location of the little box thats ticking, its pretty easy. Just a pain taking the screws out and then getting them back in.

Took me a while but ended up with scratches all over my arm cause i forced myself.

If time isn't an issue, just take it all apart.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...