Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Recently I noticed that the clock in my R32 cluster has stopped working, well not complete, the backlight comes on as usual but there is no display of digits.

It’s really faint and you can’t really make out the numbers.

Was working fine the last time I saw it, but when I started the car up which was about a week after the last time I started it, I noticed that it was like it?

What could have caused this?

How do I fix it?

And is it a common problem? I also noticed a few weeks ago, my friends clock also died in his R32.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Abu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191192-r32-cluster-clock/
Share on other sites

It seems to be a common problem. Alot of people on here just leave it or just replace it with one from a wrecked skyline. As its broken already I would pull it apart myself and have a look - wouldnt hurt, you may just find its a loose contact or similar

Same thing happened to me when I first got my car, interior light blew out at the same time. Narrowed it down to a particular fuse then when I was putting my stereo deck in I discovered that the previous owner had left a live (ignition) wire loose behind the dash which would randomly earth out on the stereo bracket and blow the fuse.

Same thing happened to me when I first got my car, interior light blew out at the same time. Narrowed it down to a particular fuse then when I was putting my stereo deck in I discovered that the previous owner had left a live (ignition) wire loose behind the dash which would randomly earth out on the stereo bracket and blow the fuse.

Yep thats right.

If you short a wire like the stereo main wire it will blow the fuse.

Common problem also, if the clock display isn't working the back-light usually keeps working.

Clock won't hold memory and the writing will be faint, also the stereo won't hold memory and in some cases won't switch on.

That fuse controls the main/constant 12v power to inside the car. If fuse goes, so does the clock and stereo. :P

Edited by abu

Ive got the same problem, but in my R33. The clock is REALLY faint like u cant see it at all unless u really look at nite. The stereo was put it really dodgey and i took it out but the clock still doesnt work. So wheres the fuse for it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...