Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i was at the drags wit my mates yesterday wen i noticed my clutch was stuck, lik all the way in!

it didnt come out!...lol

i dropped it from 3 - 3.5grand..all good..went to put it in second and notice my clutch was in still..

u could smell the clutch after..lol..real bad!

but i can drive fine..and doesnt engage randomly..or anything..nothin un-usual..

sometimes i can smell a bit of clutch after driving..or something that smells lik clutch..lol

anyone ever had this problem before??

i believe i still have the stock clutch, and i got 243rwhp..woops!..lol..so it cant take the power or is it somethin else?

clutch master cyl(in engine)?

clutch pedal piston/cyl. (behind the pedal)?

no leaks on either one...

any ideas ??plus after i drive for a while..like good driving..i still smell lik a burning clutch smell..sometimes..

im gona get a new clutch, but i just wana make sure nothin else could b going wrong..

i checked for leaks..and nothin..just a tiny bit of oil round wer the gearbox connects onto the the eninge..but dats always bein der..im gona degress it off..an c it any else comes out..

but cant see anything else..

any ideas, would helps.thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191394-r33-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites

it is all of the above lol

But if it is get stuck from what i know its the clutch line and the clutch also has the dick

243rwhp would be enough to root the clutch

Change it to HD cutch and while your there do the line and the pivot

Could be a number of things

With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate.

i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed?

Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay.

If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

Could be a number of things

With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate.

i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed?

Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay.

If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

243rwhp would be enough to root the clutch

243 divided by 1.35 = 180rwkw. i think thats correct...

that isnt much power at all! mine gets that with only a 3" turbo back and a pod! though i havent confirmed whether or not it has a dump pipe, but still.

mind you, i have fried the stock clutch, (doing burnouts). it was very impressive, or at least the smoke was...

because i was povo at the time i replaced with the stock gts-t clutch industries kit. it seems to hold up fine under that power. but id prefer a firmer pedal.

  • 2 weeks later...

found out wat was wrong..

i had one of my rear rims changed to a stockie..

anyways..

a tech. from work told me having different size wheels on a rear wheel drive car,

causes the diff to slip all the time!!

so it was my diff that was burning, and thats wat i could smell!!

thank god i get my rim back 2mrw..

but i also got told the the circumference of the wheel may not cause it slip all the time..

so if it wat nearly the same as the other size rim and tyre together, than it should be ok..

well thats wat another tech believes..

but most techs said that having different size wheels causes the clutch packs inside the diff just

to get over-heated and worn..

so yeah

found my problem..

Edited by bumble_bee

yeah, i dont no about that..

thats still confusing me..

and it hasnt done it ever since that day..maybe it just got stuck/jammed wen i was dropin the clutch??

who knows

but i found out the smell problem..

coz i was concerned about that too..

so atleast thats one problem fixed!!

plus i got my rim back..all good now..

Edited by bumble_bee

the rolling diameter of a 205/65/r15 or stock skyline 16inch size is pretty much the same as a 235/45/r17, so im not really sure that would have caused an issue?

an if theres a smell usually there has to be a leak?....you dont smell the engine oil when it gets hot, nor the gearbox oil if its hot.....so why would you smell the diff? had plenty of mates with worn/slipping LSD's an all that happens is only one wheel spins instead of 2.....no smells....(cept for rubber melting on occasion :ph34r: )

guess you'll soon tell if the smell is now gone

an if your clutch is sticking to the floor id say its something to do with the fluid side of it, normally it sticking to the floor means the slave cylinder is leaking (this is on the side of your gearbox, it pushes the fork that engages the clutch) , but then you'd have no clutch at all cause there'd be no pressure?? strange if it only happened once an not again. Maybe air in the system an it needs to be bled? Best bet is to just get it replaced, they'll soon find the problem one they drive it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...