Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea was a little tight loosened it no diff, also tried removing the spring washer no diff, only thing i can see it being is that the white little bit on the end is really tight so im hoping it will wear in... and by the way, the white thing on the end of the shiter is $11.50 from nissan not $4 like some ppl were saying....

Edited by skiwhine

i put a ebay shifter in too. had to make up a spacer so it didnt clamp down on the pivot ball to much making it stick, also welded in top half of original shifter to stop noise coming up. have got a basic drawing of what i done but wont let me put it on here. if interested pm me!

Edited by Pal
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

what washer?

n recap, have driven it a bit and it seems to have worn in when slappin 3rd i jus make sure i shift in a diagnal fashon to be safe :rofl:

short shifter rocks 2 btw, stand shifter i wouldnt use on a $50 go-kart

  • 3 months later...

Old post revived i know but i put one of these shifters in an found the square clamp to be to tight so i used the new bush which tucks in over the ball of the shifter an the original two C clips that were on the standard shifter instead of the metal bracket an seems to work a treat. Not to tight but not to loose either an much shorter throw. Only thing is now i can hear the whinge of the gearbox as the syncros are under more load. I dont abuse the hell out of my gearbox so how long roughly will it last??? Thinking of even going back to the original shifter just to quieten it down...

have driven a 33gtst that had a short shifter - made the same noise. i asked about it - was my neighbours dads car - and he said it was on the car when he bought it 8,000km ago. no dramas. just noisy. Didnt know what it was making the noise tho!

Old post revived i know but i put one of these shifters in an found the square clamp to be to tight so i used the new bush which tucks in over the ball of the shifter an the original two C clips that were on the standard shifter instead of the metal bracket an seems to work a treat. Not to tight but not to loose either an much shorter throw. Only thing is now i can hear the whinge of the gearbox as the syncros are under more load. I dont abuse the hell out of my gearbox so how long roughly will it last??? Thinking of even going back to the original shifter just to quieten it down...

you don't get a rubber bush on short shifters so all the noise from the g/box get transfered straight up the shifter. i cut my stock shifter below the rubber bush, done the same place on the short shifter and welded the stock shifter onto the short shifter bottom, walla, no more noise and feels even better

(make sure you get someone who can weld to do it,i got my mate who's a pressure welder to do mine)

you don't get a rubber bush on short shifters so all the noise from the g/box get transfered straight up the shifter. i cut my stock shifter below the rubber bush, done the same place on the short shifter and welded the stock shifter onto the short shifter bottom, walla, no more noise and feels even better

(make sure you get someone who can weld to do it,i got my mate who's a pressure welder to do mine)

That is such a good idea. I hate the sound of the gearbox through the shifter, also the heat transfers through it making the gearknob and gearstick surround going hot as.

i had trouble with the lil plastic bushing being too small, so i bought the metal one from cusco and i will see how it goes, i got a real leather nismo (fismo) boot also with red stitching to match my car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...