Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

UPDATE:

After weeks of trying to find some rims that would suite the color and the lines of my car, i decided to settle for 18" Gravity Gullflame in Gold colour, 9.5" wide.

It's really essential for me to get the widest tyres available for a R33 GTST, so i was thinking 275's at the back and 245's at the front.

The 9.5" width rims come in these offsets: +15, +25 and +35

.. and the 8.5" width rims come in these: +25 and +35

Should I go both front and rear the same width rims? or Should i perhaps go 8.5" for fronts?

What is the ideal offset for front and rear wheels?

Do you think i could get same offset rims for front and rear on a gtst?

Help me plzzz..

Old post:

I've been lusting over these wheels lately, but can't seem to figure out what brand they are.

They can't be Wedsport SA-70's, although they look very much alike.

Can one one help me?

P1040489.jpg

P1040490.jpg

P1040493.jpg

Edited by Barbarian
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191751-what-are-these-wheels/
Share on other sites

Guys, another question.

What would be the best (like in that photos of Silvia above) for a R33, offset wise ?

The offset of the car above isn't THAT good. I mean it's got a wider body, but the wheels aren't close enough to the guards in my opinion. The front are alright though.

Try using this calculator mate.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Just experiment with different offsets and width to see how much the wheel comes out and see if there's enough room under your guards.

The offset of the car above isn't THAT good. I mean it's got a wider body, but the wheels aren't close enough to the guards in my opinion. The front are alright though.

Try using this calculator mate.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Just experiment with different offsets and width to see how much the wheel comes out and see if there's enough room under your guards.

Thanks adam, much appreciated

God bless :rofl:

Hi Adam

In my defense, those pics were taken when I had a set of Ikeya Formula rear lower control arms in place and before I had a chance to get it aligned. I've since fitted the stock rear lca's and sold the Ikeya Formula ones (overkill for a daily), and the offsets are much closer to perfection. See the pics on the following post for proof:

http://www.sillbeer.com/2007/10/sillbeer-r...ther-stuff.html

Note that there's too much camber on the passenger side as it's yet to have an alignment (which will be happening tomorrow).

Cheers

Brendan

The offset of the car above isn't THAT good. I mean it's got a wider body, but the wheels aren't close enough to the guards in my opinion. The front are alright though.

Try using this calculator mate.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Just experiment with different offsets and width to see how much the wheel comes out and see if there's enough room under your guards.

After weeks of trying to find some rims that would suite the color and the lines of my car, i decided to settle for 18" Gravity Gullflame in Gold colour, 9.5" wide.

It's really essential for me to get the widest tyres available for a R33 GTST, so i was thinking 275's at the back and 245's at the front.

The 9.5" width rims come in these offsets: +15, +25 and +35

.. and the 8.5" width rims come in these: +25 and +35

Should I go both front and rear the same width rims? or Should i perhaps go 8.5" for fronts?

What is the ideal offset for front and rear wheels?

Do you think i could get same offset rims for front and rear on a gtst?

Help me plzzz..

Hi Adam

In my defense, those pics were taken when I had a set of Ikeya Formula rear lower control arms in place and before I had a chance to get it aligned. I've since fitted the stock rear lca's and sold the Ikeya Formula ones (overkill for a daily), and the offsets are much closer to perfection. See the pics on the following post for proof:

http://www.sillbeer.com/2007/10/sillbeer-r...ther-stuff.html

Note that there's too much camber on the passenger side as it's yet to have an alignment (which will be happening tomorrow).

Cheers

Brendan

Sorry mate, I didn't mean to offend you in any way. Seeing that the car is used as a daily, I'm not surprised it doesn't have its tyres 2mm from the guards. :happy:

It's a beautiful car though mate. I'll be lucky if any of my car's will look like that. Take care of it.

Cheers

No wuckers mate. I was more surprised the many that putting the stock arms on would set the wheels up for almost perfect offset to the outside of the guards. But haveing said that, it means I can't lower it drastically without dialing a whole lot of camber in to tuck the top of the tyres under.

Cheers

Brendan

After weeks of trying to find some rims that would suite the color and the lines of my car, i decided to settle for 18" Gravity Gullflame in Gold colour, 9.5" wide.

It's really essential for me to get the widest tyres available for a R33 GTST, so i was thinking 275's at the back and 245's at the front.

The 9.5" width rims come in these offsets: +15, +25 and +35

.. and the 8.5" width rims come in these: +25 and +35

Should I go both front and rear the same width rims? or Should i perhaps go 8.5" for fronts?

What is the ideal offset for front and rear wheels?

Do you think i could get same offset rims for front and rear on a gtst?

Help me plzzz..

If I were you I would go with the 8.5" at the front and 9.5" in the rear. I wouldn't have a clue how much clearance there is between your wheels and your guards, but I can help you out if you can get me some information.

Your current wheel specs:

I'll need your, wheel width, offset, diameter, tyre width and profile.

Your new wheel:

Just give me your desired width for the front and back and I'll work out which offsets I'd recommend.

Also how much clearance there is between your WHEEL and your guards front and rear.

If you get me that information, I should be able to help you decide which offset to go with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...