Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I feel your pain mate. I lost it once when I was concerntrating. Also lack of experience I think. Only had the car 3 weeks, wasnt used to the power or rear wheel drive. Having bald tyres didnt help either. Lost it and took out a fire hydrant. Im the unofficial cause of stage 3 water restrictions. Lucky for me it was minor damage. I feel really bad about the amount of water lost though, the bloody hydrant was going for an hour. =(

PS: car was covered by full comp and is all good now. The sig pick is the side that was hit, front right. As you can see, you cant tell the difference. Now its got nice fat new tyres on it.

Edited by DogKnight
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oakliegh Repairs will replace/fix the following parts

AIRBAGS

DASHBOARD

BONNET

HEADLIGHTS

WATER PUMP

HARMONIC

RADIATOR SUPPORTS

FRONT BAR (MODIFIED NON STOCK BUMPER)

REENFORCEMENT

GRILL

WINDSCREEN

RADIATOR

CLUTCH FAN

a/c CONDENCER

RECIVER BOTTLE

BONNET LOCK SUPPORT

WASHER BOTTLE

THERMAL FAN

BELTS WHICH NEEDED DOING

7k INCLUDING PARTS,LABOR & RESPRAY!

hrmm are you sure its worth to pay $7k to fix it?

How much do r33 gts' sell for these days?

Might be better to sell the wreck and purchase another gts? as the car may never be the same after it has been repaired...

i bought that 5 month ago for 13 k

i know i could buy like a shitty commo or something

but i love the car too much

its like

if your pet was sick.. and you could pay 2000 to make him better or 500 for a new pet

you wanna fix him

you could probably make 4 -5k selling all the parts, then plus the 7k that you need to spend to fix it is around 12k which would easily get you another gts that has not been in a smash, or hold out and get a gtst.

my friend has same sort of front end damage, his mechanic told him to go to the wreckers to get a "front nose cut".. should include most of what u need, except bonnet, lights, and belt from what i remember.. but its hard to find nose cuts.. should cost $1k i hear.. but if u find it, it could save you money..

also the airbags cost a shitload to replace.. 2000 + i think..

the money isnt so important as much as getting the car back asap

plus i dont wanna be hunting down shit

i like the idea of

i give to man

man fixes

man calls me when i can pick it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...