Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all just popping in real quickly again to ask the opinions of the forum. Car is a 95 gts-t with fmic, pod with cai, 3.5" turbo back exhaust split dump, running 12 psi with an ebc, always run 100 ron fuel, plugs gapped at .6 or .7, stock everything else and afc neo. Now I was watching my afr's the other day at full throttle and without a tune on stock ecu the reading I got was never below 11 is that common for a skyline with these few mods? Now I'm thinking the readings are definately off cause while at idle I never get anything below 16 just want to confirm that the wideband is stuffed, when at full throttle I never get anything below 11 and I had the wideband exposed to exhaust fumes and heat for like a week before I got power to it. All help is appreciated and welcomed. Thanks again in advance. Also a friend of mine has a ca18 that he wanted to get 300 - 350 rear wheel hp out of and I was wondering if you guys could help out or point in the right direction car is virtually stock and its an automatic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192302-is-this-heard-of/
Share on other sites

it cant hurt to get your readings checked against a calibrated 5 gas analyser.

Also those WB02 sensors are very sensitive to exhaust leaks.

Unless your exhaust sytem is 100% sealed then your readings are worthless

I think all skylines with stock ecu's do it once you add boost, thats why so many people get s-afc's to get that extra power, mine runs down to 10.5ish on full throttle!! although I haven't run it again after putting in a new 02 sensor. but I wouldn't stress about it mate >_<

Silly question here.. is the AFC actually tuned?

A tune of the AFC would resolve this... being thats what they are used for

Nismoid thats why I am asking the question, not silly at all ,I'm thinking its a bit high for an untuned skyline on stock ecu.With the mods I listed thats a whole lot more breathing room for the engine so I was expecting 10's at least, another mod I forgot to mention is a bosch 040 fuel pump recently installed like 3 months back, also fpr with gauge and stock pressure reads 44 psi at idle without vacuum. At idle also the widebands reads and shows nothing less than 16 and goes all the way to lean as the car warms and in closed loop mode still nothing less than 16 just was wondering if this is common or can I say the wideband is stuffed come on you don't find this a bit strange. Now i can't say my exhaust is perfect but there are no leaks I can visible hear or see.

I think a few people have missed the point. The 02 sensor should be keeping the AFR at ~14.7 in closed loop as Fat is saying. Usually it would be a bit richer at full throttle also.

Most likely either:

1. Stuffed measurement device (AFRs its reading are wrong)

2. Stuffed fuel pump

3. Stuffed Fuel pressure regulator (check fuel pressure at rail at idle)

4. Stuffed O2 sensor (Doesn't explain only 11:1 AFR at full throttle - usually would be richer)

4. Stuffed AFM (less likely)

Edited by benl1981

if you want good ratios, you need a tune.

02 sensor has little to do with it most of the time. thats why some people run it without that feedback. also the ratios depicted may be inacurate depending on where the wideband is installed in the exhaust and the piping size. any leaks (which many cars have) makes it even more "guessy"

11s is not that rich anyway

That's what he's saying - he expected it to be running richer than that. Mine was in the 9-10s when I upped the boost which is usually how they go.

O2 sensor is what sets the AFRs at light load and idle. In fact I can drive around town in closed loop most of the time if I baby it round. The tune has to be close to the mark first but then the 02 sensor will bring it back to 14.7 AFR by playing with the injector duty cycle.

Take it to a dyno and pay $50 to get it checked there both on idle and full throttle, then if its the measurement device you havent wasted your time trying to fix a problem that isnt there.

Edited by benl1981
I think a few people have missed the point. The 02 sensor should be keeping the AFR at ~14.7 in closed loop as Fat is saying. Usually it would be a bit richer at full throttle also.

Most likely either:

1. Stuffed measurement device (AFRs its reading are wrong): Really think so either the wideband O2 is stuffed or there is a leak in the exhaust cause I did all the test on the device to troubleshoot it and everything was spot on

2. Stuffed fuel pump: Brand new bosch 040

3. Stuffed Fuel pressure regulator (check fuel pressure at rail at idle):44psi

4. Stuffed O2 sensor (Doesn't explain only 11:1 AFR at full throttle - usually would be richer): Maybe read that if you have them connected without power to it might stuff it up and i did for like a week thats the wideband tho have a narrowband on the way that I will install ths week

4. Stuffed AFM (less likely): Could be but doubt it

That's what he's saying - he expected it to be running richer than that. Mine was in the 9-10s when I upped the boost which is usually how they go.

O2 sensor is what sets the AFRs at light load and idle. In fact I can drive around town in closed loop most of the time if I baby it round. The tune has to be close to the mark first but then the 02 sensor will bring it back to 14.7 AFR by playing with the injector duty cycle.

Take it to a dyno and pay $50 to get it checked there both on idle and full throttle, then if its the measurement device you havent wasted your time trying to fix a problem that isnt there.

:Wish I could but dynos are rare over here would fix a whole lot of shit but have to wait a month before they bring the dyno back!!! :rolleyes: You all know how it is once you get someting you want it perfect right away just don't have the tools man so I gatta eliminate stuff on my own really think its a leak tho with the seal around the gaskets of the decat pipe might be my mind but think I can hear a little air escaping will get that siliconed also the dump pipe area and move the wideband O2 sensor to just before the deact pipe tis weekend and see if that fixes it.
it cant hurt to get your readings checked against a calibrated 5 gas analyser.

Also those WB02 sensors are very sensitive to exhaust leaks.

Unless your exhaust sytem is 100% sealed then your readings are worthless

Hey Thanks all found the prob as you stated they are very sensitive to exhaust leaks. There is a hole the size of my finger right above the wideband O2 sensor bung half assed welder didn't weld it properly. Gonna get it welded shut on the weekend hopefully this person does a better job and I can finally tune the car properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...