R33 Gts25t Factory Temperature Gauge

[Turbo 33]

factory water temperature gauge only moving 5mil past the cold line and staying there even after 2 hours of driving whats wrong with it and how do i fix it help

[DECIM8]

Sensor prob rooted, see if your ecu is giving a error code (i.e take it to nissan and run a check)

[Turbo 33]

Sensor prob rooted, see if your ecu is giving a error code (i.e take it to nissan and run a check)

do they check it for free

[stolen_s15]

do they check it for free

Nissan will do nothing for free.

[Jamie88]

I'd be more inclined to say its working fine and you need to replace your thermostat

[Turbo 33]

I'd be more inclined to say its working fine and you need to replace your thermostat

where is the thermostat on rb25det

[RB30-POWER]

thermostat stuck open, faulty gauge or faulty temp sender.

could be any of the above.

gauge can be tested with gauge tester or resistor of known value, sender can be checked with multimeter and compare resistance to specs, thermostat can be removed and visually inspected and also thrown into boiling water with thermometer and check operation is as per specs.

everything can be tested really easy (if you know what your doing) and shouldn't cost much either if you go to a pro to get it looked out. 1/2 hour you could diagnose it for sure.

[BHDave]

There's nothing wrong with your gauge, your temp sensor or your thermostat (what the hell were you thinking jamie?)

It in the acceptable range, It wont even move off the stop until you are at close to 60 degrees

It's stable

And the car can obviously drive for 2 hours flawlessly enough that you start looking for problems where they don't exist.

What possible reason can you have for thinking it's broken?

[Turbo 33]

There's nothing wrong with your gauge, your temp sensor or your thermostat (what the hell were you thinking jamie?)

It in the acceptable range, It wont even move off the stop until you are at close to 60 degrees

It's stable

And the car can obviously drive for 2 hours flawlessly enough that you start looking for problems where they don't exist.

What possible reason can you have for thinking it's broken?

Because it use to sit at halfway and not it only just goes past cold only mod are cat back exhaust and pod filter and running 10 psi

[BHDave]

mods won't effect it.

If the thermostat was stuck open you'd see the car take longer to heat up but in stop/start driving the temperature would still get up to normal range, then drop back down on freeway driving. There isn't anything wrong with the car in that regard.

Has it just suddenly dropped or has it slowly been creeping down over time? Has the engine bay been steam cleaned or anything recently?

Before doing anything else, pull the connector off the temp sensor in the engine bay (it's the 1 wire sensor on the front of the engine next to where the top radiator hose joints the inlet manifold) and make sure it isn't corroded. clean it up if it is, pull the plug off and on a few times to clean the contact.

If that doesn't fix it, then just keep an eye on the gauge and see if it is dropping slowly. if it is, then it is most like the sensor, but that is pretty unusual.

[Jamie88]

I still say thermostat....... When its stuck open in all cases ive seen the temp will not get close to halfway where it should and just sits around cold all the time.....I just replaced mine it was doing the same thing. Replace it, will cost you $25 can be found where the bottom radiator hose meets the engine block. Take the 3 bolts out and just wack a new one in. Try that before you start thinking about pulling sensors and what not out. But do check the temp sensor switch for corrosion/loose connection etc as BHDave said.

[Turbo 33]

I still say thermostat....... When its stuck open in all cases ive seen the temp will not get close to halfway where it should and just sits around cold all the time.....I just replaced mine it was doing the same thing. Replace it, will cost you $25 can be found where the bottom radiator hose meets the engine block. Take the 3 bolts out and just wack a new one in. Try that before you start thinking about pulling sensors and what not out. But do check the temp sensor switch for corrosion/loose connection etc as BHDave said.

ok thanks will do it tomorrow

[RB30-POWER]

if you know someone with nissan consult, get them to plug it in diagnostic port and check the actual temp. should be around 80deg or so.

you don't want it running cold and causing excessive fuel consumption and engine wear and tear.

laser thermometer on top radiator hose also is not a bad idea if you have one handy.