Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hello GTS200X,

The RB30 has both longer rods and a taller block height. I cannot remember the exact rod ratios of all these engines, but I do have that information here somewhere. All the RB engines end up in the 1.6 to 1.7 range, so there is no vast difference in this respect.

Steve, higher compression ratio does in fact lift the torque and power curves throughout the range by a small but fairly constant amount. At lower engine RPM it does this by raising the compression pressure (obviously). But what is not so obvious is that it also helps the volumetric efficiency at the high RPM end as well.

What happens at TDC around the valve overlap period is that some exhaust gas is always trapped in the combustion chamber at whatever the exhaust back pressure happens to be. The larger the combustion space, the higher the volume of trapped exhaust gas.

After the exhaust valve closes, and you are on the induction stroke, fresh charge is drawn into the cylinder. But the trapped exhaust expands, and takes up room that could otherwise be filled with fresh charge. It also adds heat to the fresh charge as well, expanding it. This works against the fine job your intercooler has just done.

If you can get away with a higher compression ratio, the combustion chamber will be smaller, and the piston can pump out the exhaust and pump in the fresh charge more efficiently. In other words at TDC where there is more piston crown, trapped exhaust cannot remain.

This is all particularly true with a turbo engine because compression ratios are lower, and exhaust back pressure higher than with a highly tuned n/a engine.

Enrico, yes you definitely need the book to understand the selection menus available. Even then it can be a bit tricky to use.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again Brad.

Go to any speed shop or car place, they will have a catalogue for "Mr Gasket Co" the US based hot bits distributor.

In that catalogue will be software products developed by Motion Software. There will be Dyno 2000, and I think there is a later Dyno 2002 version as well, but not absolutely sure.

My copy of Dyno 2000 cost $160 twelve months ago.

There is a website somewhere where you can download a demo program. Well worth a look.

On the supplied CD, there is a huge operating manual that you can print out. It discusses engine theory, and how the simulations work, it is an excellent read quite apart from the software itself.

It will certainly be an eye opener. Personally I am going the RB26 crank in the RB25 block route. If you remember, you supplied me with the RB26 crank and rods to do it a while back !

But really it all comes down to airflow determining final power, not engine capacity.

The difference in the shape of the torque and power curves that a 14mm stroke difference will make, will absolutely astound you.

I actually don't know if it simulates 100% warpspeed, as i've been researching and a RB30DET with the same setup as a RB25DET does make more top end power and more power over the complete rev range.

It also peaks power around the same also.

Its still just over 6k, like the RB25.

lol..i wondered how you knew my name..:mad:..do you want some hks rods for that crank ?

yes, thats the decider....its torque that makes a streeter pleasent to drive, but how much torque is overkill ( not that there is such a thing ) and how much is not, especially when deciding which way to go ( and like you, I also have a 26 crank and 25 block) ...Ill be getting the software asap

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...=&postid=433625

As you can see Raists60 RB30 still makes slightly more top end slightly earlier but look at the mid range power.

For the street it will make a much quicker car.

Apparently the only change was the RB30 bottom end. No more boost etc..

Here is his post in the RB30 conversion thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...3625#post433625

My philosophy is to keep the basic engine breathing (volumetric efficiency) as good as possible over as wide an RPM range as possible, and then use supercharger boost to lift the whole torque and power curve to what is required.

So if you begin with an RB30DE that has a lot of natural low end off boost torque, but poor top end breathing, a big turbo is going to fix the lack of top end and make a very nice package.

On the other hand a normally aspirated six throttle body RB26 is going to lack torque, but breathe very easily to well above 8,000 RPM. A decent positive displacement supercharger is going to lift the torque right up, and you will end up with a far more flexible engine with more low end, and a far extended top end. And it will not be short of power or torque either.

The other possibilities are an RB26 turbo, which even stock, is going to lack torque below 4000RPM, and when powered up will be even less flexible. It becomes a narrow power band racing engine.

A supercharged RB30DE would be the exact opposite. Bags of low end torque, and completely dead at the top end. It would make the ultimate truck engine.

So I think a turbo RB30, or a supercharged RB26 would be the go for the ideal street engine.

Joel.

After looking at those two power curves, have to agree the RB30 is going to be heaps stronger at the same maximum boost.

But I suspect though that the same rated boost level was only reached at the very top end with the RB25 combination.

Fitting the RB30 allowed the turbo(s) to come on boost far sooner and create that massive mid range torque.

I would like to bet that some slightly smaller exhaust turbines/housings on the RB25 combination would also have come on boost sooner as well and given a similar if not identical result.

Still, it has ended up a mighty impressive engine though, no matter how he finally did it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...