Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all i know this might sound like a bit of a stupid post but i kinda want to find out how to get that flutter sound or this new dose as they call it?.. any way i was reading up on the r31 forums http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,79558.0.html

and he pretty much summed it to a t but hasnt repleyd or anything to my posts. but i was wanting to find out if there is any issues has any one done it? ( are there diy posts )? wat is this intake pipe that goes to the mouth of ur turbo that i have to replace? does it need to be replaced ?

cheers in advanced dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193621-how-to-get-that-sound/
Share on other sites

^^ lol.

block the blow off valve off mate, and get a pod filter :rofl:;) . a dose pipe is another name for a front pipe (exhaust) that you bolt onto your dump pipe :)

Na man, a dose pipe is a metal pipe off the turbo!

You got your terminology all mixed up.

Coundown to thread lock... 10..............9...........8...........7........6

But just to help you out, and save you from using the search function.

1. Get pod

2. Get FMIC

3. Get metal pipe from pod to turbo

4. Relocate AFM btwn turbo and throttle body.

5. Block up BOV

6. Drive around dosing like a mad kent, glaring at anyone who looks.

7. Reverse all of the above as soon as you realise dosing is the domain of full hectic muzteks in VL turbos.

Good luck

Edited by stolen_s15

that who was asking for ? now come joey not on here SpEaK1n 1n C4Ps with bros on the end of every sentence.. if you dont have a valid comment shut the f**k up.

Edited by MRDeanos.

blocking your factory bypass valve to get your hektic flutterz will damage your turbo in the long run. no harm in running a metal pipe from the AFM to the turbo though (other than marginally increasing the heat soak from the engine of the air going in).

dose pipe is the metal pipe between the turbo and the AFM... combined with a blocked bypass valve the air is forced back through the turbo when the throttle is shut, which chops it up... the metal pipe then amplifies the chopping noise and you have your "dose".

having a dose pipe won't win you any respect from anyone who isn't fully sik hektic though... in fact they might laugh at you.

I have flutter, but not really by choice. As soon as i hit boost, my standard BOV opens. Its rooted. So i just made up a plate to block the BOV off. I prefer flutter than the annoying sound of a BOV anyday.

MRdeanos, im no expert but depending on the turbo you have, over time is can cause damage to you turbo. As not having a BOV is causing the trubo the spin the opposite way when you back off the gas.

Can anyone tell me which turbo is more flutter friendly lol? is it roller bearing? Sorry im a noob...

EDIT: Funky monkey, what do you mean by a metal pipe between the turbo and the turbo?

Edited by Lock_to_lock
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...