Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What condition is it in?

Why are u selling it, to replace it with a stock one?

How many km's has it done?

When selling something please give as much detail as possible (including price) so people can make an informed decision.

PS: I'm not interested in buying it myself, just thought i will ask the obvious questions to help everyone else.

the diff is currently in my car as i said , and its in excellent order. The reason why i havent put a price on this item is because i dont know how much its worth, but i was told by a couple of people that it is worth a fair bit.

please give me a call if you're interested on 46531575 or 0404810421 ask for matthew

Originally posted by ma160802

what are you offering?

$100 and a spin around the track in my car once it's installed.

As Blitz said , post a price , this is not a dutch auction.

Cheers

Ken

I'd suggest you do your research before randomly advertising your goods for sale.

There are many types of NISMO LSDs available.

Two main types are: SSS LSD, and Mechanical LSD.

SSS LSD has two different types available for BNR32 and BCNR33:

2 Way LSD - 38420-RS205-E

1.5 Way LSD - 38420-RS207-E

Both are 105,000 Yen.

The NISMO Mechanical LSD, there are 4 types available for GTR:

R200 LSD - BNR32 Start ~ 93/02 - 4.111 Ratio - 38420-RS500A

R200 LSD - BNR32 93/02 ~ End - 4.111 Ratio - 38420-RS581A

R200 LSD - BCNR33 - 4.111 Ratio - 38420-RS581A

R200 LSD - BNR34 - 3.545 Ratio - 38420-RS581A

All are 86,000 Yen.

WHICH ONE DO YOU HAVE?

The bill for my time is in the mail. Prompt payment is appreciated.

Merli

ma160802 should be able to afford quite a bit for the info... judging by what he wants for the diff... LOL Seriously ma160802, we are buying close to 80yen at the moment, and consiquently parts are cheap from Nippon. Think your $AUD1300 is a bit steep.

I have a standard "out of R32" clutch type centre in extremely good condition you can have for $AUD500.00 FOB. Don't want your AM one though

Ciao

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...