Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry Paul, I'm not willing to send the bonnet interstate as it's an expensive item and may get damaged.

I will upload more photos tomorrow night for anyone else who is interested. This is a direct fit for R34 GTT, bolts on to the standard hinges, uses standard GTT bonnet latch and is a premium quality Japanese made carbon fibre bonnet. Very light and looks the business >_<

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Item: Endless/Zeal "Super Function" coilovers

Age: 8000km

Condition: Very good

Price: $1100 ono (over $4,000 new)

To Fit: R33/R34 GTR

Location: Melbourne

Contact: [email protected]

Comments: Top of the line circuit suspension, 12k F/R. :rofl:

Item: C-West FULL Carbon Fibre Bonnet for R34 GTT

Age: 2 years

Condition: Very good

Price: $1200 ono (Genuine RRP, $2400)

To Fit: R34 GTT

Location: Melbourne

Contact: [email protected]

Comments: couple of minor stone chips. Not some cheap fibreglass with single layer carbon, this is a quality Japanese made full Carbon bonnet.

Item: 5R Racing intercooler 600x300x113. No pipes. Big bad boy alloy intercooler, 3" inlet/outlet.

Condition: brand new.

Price: $350 ono

To Fit: R33/R34 GTR, any car really just need to make piping

Location: Melbourne

Contact: [email protected]

Comments: For big power, drag car, etc. Selling as I'm no longer going to use this.

Item: HKS Type-S intercooler including piping

Condition: Average, Used

Price: $750 ono ** SOLD **

To Fit: R33 GTST or R34 GTT

Location: Melbourne

Contact: [email protected]

Comments:

Item: Nismo S-tune coilovers for R34 GTT (should also fit R33/R34 GTR)

Condition: Good Used condition, all working when removed from car

Price: $950 ono

To Fit: R34 GTT, R33/R34 GTR.

Location: Melbourne

Contact: [email protected]

Comments: Great smooth handling for street, not too harsh, Height & Damper adjustable

isn't 12k ridiculously firm?

isn't 12k ridiculously firm?

if you want to chat about spring rate do it elsewhere, if you're not interested in buying any of this stuff then don't post. thanks

if you want to chat about spring rate do it elsewhere, if you're not interested in buying any of this stuff then don't post. thanks

sorry if i didn't specify i was interested...i am, i was asking a question.

It's all pesonal preference, GTR weighs 1600 kg, so with quality shock dampening, I don't think 12k springs are too hard. I run 11kg springs in my GTT, which weighs 200kg less. You can always change springs if you're not happy. This is more circuit oriented but can still be driven on the street.

New item for sale - RB25 Clear Cam Gear / Timing Belt cover

Bought new in group buy, never installed. Apparently it doesn't fit the NEO engine properly so I'm selling to any R33 GTSt owner for what I paid $125 (+$10 post if not in Melb)

Group buy thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ar-t155162.html

hey man, can u pm me the tracking number for the nismo coilies please so i can organise when to pic up or stay home for em thanks, and how hard is it to fit the clear cam cover on a neo r34 engin?

Would you be interested in sending bonnet to Ireland for the right price?

Owen

YOUR INBOX IS FULL BY THE WAY

It's full on purpose, people should email me [email protected]

No I really can't be bothered sending a bonnet half way across the world, but thanks for the interest.

drmafia - check out the thread for the clear cam cover, you need to put in some spacers to clear the inlet VCT and it will fit. I just can't be bothered doing it.

Thanks

price drop -

$125 for clear cam cover +post (or pickup)

$300 firm for intercooler

$1100 for C-west carbon fibre bonnet SOLD

$1000 for Zeal coilovers (melbourne pickup preferred, or can post for $60)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...