Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dont suppose any 1 on here can do a lil stereo install for me? any of you guys done 1 before?

just want a new head unit put in, i dont have any subs or amps or anything like that.

would prefer to know that some apprentence has not taken my car for a spin while at a shop and its been done the right way not some half assed dodgy wiring job

there can be a bevarage exchange or some $$ might help with your xmas shopping

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193743-anyone-done-car-stereo-installs/
Share on other sites

2 viable options

but on the 1 hand "you cant make friends with salad" "you cant make friends with salad" and they could be drift spec stereo installs? :excl:

on the other hand a name like sinistagts sounds like he could be part of the japanese mafia :excl: i think im getting the headlight switch prob i was reading in the maintenance section (half the time i only have 1 headlight even after changing the globe) so maybe i can con him into fixing that for me as well :worship:

im a north subs boy but im fine with having an excuse to take the GTR for a spin, i still havnt picked up the stereo yet and its ment to be xmas pressie so im trying to work it closer to the day without it being a pain in the ass.

what's the going rate these days

just sneaking this in at work though so hopefully thats good english :excl:

Edited by gzilla

I have a prewired conversion loom to plug your stereo straight into your standard stereo loom, assuming all Skylines are the same (I made it for my R34). $50 if you want it. Plug and play.

sinistagst (dan) is an electronics engineer by trade, pretty sure he'd do stereo installs. He wired up up my boost gauge to my lights, i recommend him.

i thought he was only into engine's, when i met him he left me realising i dont know sh*t bout turbo's.

I have a prewired conversion loom to plug your stereo straight into your standard stereo loom, assuming all Skylines are the same (I made it for my R34). $50 if you want it. Plug and play.

i dont know what that is :O but isnt $50 roundabout the mark to get the stereo installed at a shop anyway

i can install wiper blades.

if youre interested give me a pm.

wiper blades? :worship: there was some sarcasm behind that yeah

anyways cheers for all the offer's guys wasnt expecting that much of a response, its just a simple install though. i think engineers course is a bit of overkill :O good ta know we got some tech heads in the club though

do stereo's normally go cheaper closer to xmas or just after?

http://clarion.com/au/en/products/2007/aud...1866286059.html

thats the lil baby im looking at, seems to look the closest to the 32's interior style with the slightly old school look. seen it for $300 at autobahn

i was ment to look at everyone's stereos at small car sunday to see what go's well with the interior but i forgot, hopefully ill make it out on the cruize tonight n see what ya all got though

dan, go to ang's audio tell him me and loz sent you. i got all my shit and the alarm installed for less then what the alarm costs by itself plus its pretty close to you.

Yeah I got my alarm fitted at Ang's Audio, top bloke and very reasonable pricing!

i installed my sterio in my car with the help of one of the boys at autobarn (dont work there anymore i quit) and it wasnt that hard really the dash is easy when you pull all the right bits off in the right order and i checked the price for you $300.00 can be done but normaly would be close to 399.00 but in saying that xmas things are cheaper and all autobarn stores have a huge sale on boxing day like everything is sold at almost cost price and get in early cause every man and his dog goes there it's crazy, so hold off untill boxing day if you can

lol $50 for a stereo install - good luck with that! The male part of the loom (if you do an install properly) to plug into the factory loom is $30 at cost. Plus tons of soldering and mucking around. Hence why me selling the conversion loom is crazy value at $50.

Shouldnt cost more than $150 max! Dan (sinista) has done some electrical work on my GTR and have been happy with the result but as Dan said he is a little flat out atm moving to QLD and playing with his new girls car. :ermm:

Ryan

Shouldnt cost more than $150 max! Dan (sinista) has done some electrical work on my GTR and have been happy with the result but as Dan said he is a little flat out atm moving to QLD and playing with his new girls car. :)

Ryan

He's still only thinking about it.......... gets it this week tho!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...