Jump to content
SAU Community

alpine type r subs ...

hippy

By hippy,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

2BNVS Veteran

2BNVS

Posted
Posted

Hey dude i bought 2 alpine 12 inch subs for 370 each there a good buy and a mad sub considering u have the power to run them, coz they are pretty powerful, i got a pioneer 760w amp for each sub and that goes pretty hard and even that is underpowering them a lil bit.

Type s are good too, pretty punchy but not as strong, there cheap as now, seen them goin for 120 bucks for the 12''s....

Not too sure on the eclipse subs but, dont know much bout em.

NA_R33 Grand Master

NA_R33

Posted
Posted

not for type r's dude, i got two type s 12's, check my avatar, and it pumps my whole system is over powered, but i am eventually gonna upgrade to 3 type r 12's i reckon that should go pretty hard, mate of mine has 4 type r 10's in is silvia and that is some really phat base. i have nothing but good stuff to say about alpine subs type r's are the way to go if u have the cash, but if not type s's are still an exceptional sub, mine get driven very hard constantly and ive had them for about a year now with no prbs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...