Power Increase Up Where I Can't Use It After Safc2 Tune?

[shajar]

Hey guy's anyone explain to me if this tune is any good, to me it's seems like a waste of power if you look at the graph the the green is Power and the red is torque the ones with dots is before the SAFC was tuned. The tune was done in 4th gear.

All my power increased seems to be from 90klms onwards, unfortunately I can't use much of it as I don't drive on the track and don't want to go alot faster than 120klms for fear of loosing my license, it looks as though I've lost approx. 40Hp up to 90klms which when your doing a redlight run is alot to loose? Anyone got any ideas what I can do about it or if this is standard fair after a tune.

DynoTune_with_SAFC2.pdf

[heller44]

use a gear shorter than 4th. there's usually about 3 before it, unless something weird is going on..

hope that was helpful.

[Tangles]

those graphs look horrible

the bloke who tuned it surely could have done a much better job.

have you got a larger fuel pump, an adjustable fuel regulator, a z32afm and a nice clean air filter / fuel filter?

these items really help (in my opinion / experience only) when tuning a safc for 'power'

also, should have been tuned in 3rd gear (optimal - if automatic box then pull the brown fuse in front of battery, to hold 3rd), if not then 2nd gear.

got to say, my graphs with my safc tunes (4 now) have all been much smoother then yours.

but then again, dont you have poor quality fuel in Cairns?

[stolen_s15]

That looks very messy mate.

With rb25 manual, 12psi, 3" exhaust, air filter, cooler and Safc you should pull around 190rwkw with a much smoother line.

Solution - Go to a workshop that knows how to tune.

[shajar]

Yes I would have thought so but the crap you see around 120 to 135kph is it breaking down. He replaced the plugs and it was still breaking down, so we both guessed maybe coil packs which we both inspected at different times and they look fine. Coil packs aside it seems to make good power at 205Kw I'm guessing that's ATW? But at the wrong end of the scale....especially as you see it was making 40hp up to 90kph more before the tune.

He mentioned 4th gear as bieng the standard for tuning.

It is a 5spd with a Central 20 ECU and the rest that stolen_s15 mentioned.

[heller44]

dyno runs are usually done in the gear that is closest to 1:1, in a 5-speed that is usally 4th.

what I meant was that if you were doing anything other than putting about, you wouldn't use the part of the rev range that the power is lower at.

does the engine feel smoother in this part of the rev range or did the tuner offer some reason for this?

[SKYRYAN]

Doesnt look like your engine is running very smoothly

A redlight run = dragging someone at the lights? If so.. you dont drag someone from 4th gear and you dont sit on low revs... so the higher rev range IS where you want your power at.

[shajar]

Ah I see, yes he mentioned it was from around 1000rpm to (not sure) around 6000rpm maybe? So the essentially I could break this graph up to into 5 parts from 1000rpm through to 6000rpm and the lower part upto 90Kph would be at a different RPM, if you get my drift.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I guess what I'm saying here is if the graph show'd Revs aswell it would be easier to read, so if I was in example 2nd gear that power curve that is low would be around 2000RPM in every gear? Then from around 2500RPM it's better in every gear?

[The Mafia]

what a dodgey tune.

Not sure how hard the SAFC's are to do though. I've done one and they are pretty basic..

Powerfc all the way!

[shajar]

Ok so I found out from the tuner that it was run from 1000RPM to 7000RPM so that would make the crossover point from worse to better around 3000RPM. The old tune is the one with the dots.

As for how the car feels, well it's made it a little sedate below 3000RPM and then it has a bootload more power from there on with a hesitation/shudder around 5000RPM then smooths out again, so I can't complain about that too much as heller44 said you don't use that part of the rev range too much other than putting around.

It kinda feels like the same problem I had when the plugs were not gapped to .7 on 12psi on my old R33 Skyline it boosted ok to around 9psi then anything after that it shuddered and that's as far as you could go until I changed the spark gap from 1 to .7 although this one seems to push past that shudder with some hisitation then keeps cranking? He put new sparks in and left them gapped at 1 so I think I'll pull them out and change the gap to .7 and see if it still hesitates, if so then need to look seriously at coilpacks.