Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I tried searching this topic but couldn't find any info. If once of you guys could send me a link regarding this topic that would be great.

Basically, everytime a accelerate, and let go of the clutch to change gears, the car will stall. The car idles and drives fine when I am not pushing it, but as soon as I give it a lottle, itll stall when changing gears.

The car is standard apart from me putting a pod filter on in and taking off the plumb back BOW system on it to get the flutter. Do you think it could be the flutter (compression surge) that could be casuing the problem? because the air exists the filter when the butterfly on the throttle body closes, would the Air flow meter be getting reverse readings (air going out)?

I seriously am puzzled, ive got heaps of mates with the same mod as me and there car doesnt stall, has anyone had the same problem or know of a solution?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194030-my-r33-gts-t-keeps-stalling/
Share on other sites

You realise you just answered your own question don't you?

Ties are ways around it, like getting a map sensored ecu, but thats a lot of cash to spend on a ghey little noise

You know it totally screws with the AFM signal and the air fuel ratio when there's air not goin where its supposed to. Put the pipe back on and LEAVE IT ALONE. For gods sake man its just a stupid noise anyway......

:glare:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...