Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just rewmoved my bleed valve and need to go back to stock boost so i can drive the car... i have one hose coming from what is a pipe underneath my intercooler piping on the left side of the engine (facing the car's front end)... one from the intercooler piping itself and on form the turbo's actuator (i think that what the gold drum thingy is)

and i have the stock boost solenoid which has two connectors and electrical wires coming from it.. so where does each tube go.. dont want no overboostin lol

cheers...yup that helps lots. Is useful i think for others too who might not know what it is ;)

Are those wires blue w/ white stripe and white? I have an orphan plug sitting around, just wondering whether its the same one. Does it require power or is it fully neumatic?

hmmm.. well i have the solenoid in place.. From those photos it appears the bottom hose from the solenoid is going to the wastegate, where as the top hose is to the throttle intake? So all should be fine right?

Unfortunately its not, when i connected it like that infinite boost..it just kept going up and up until about 12psi till i backed it off ;)

There is also a blocked outlet on my (stock) BOV return pipe where it goes back to the turbo, so maybe the top hose is meant to go there? Although the pressure should be pretty much the same shoudlnt' it and make little difference?

I mean i can "cheat" and just connect the intake direct to the wastegate and it will hold correct boost (which i'm doing for running around) but its for an EPA so the solenoid needs to be connected (i think?)

Anybody ?? Quicksmart? if anybody has a standard boost solenoid can they jump out to their car and have a close look plz?

Hi,

The bottom line on the solenoid goes to the T piece that in turn goes to the wastegate actuator (where your bleed valve probably is).

The top line on the solenoid goes back off into the BOV return line. As I recall, it's under the air piping that leads into the turbo inlet.

The striped wire (to the right of the plug) is a constand 13.5 volts

The solid colour wire (the left of the plug) is a negative trigger controlled by the ECU to open the solenoid.

The solenoid is fully electric.

line goes from high pressure side of the intercooler to the waste gate, then a "t" piece, the "T" peice runs a hose the the boost control solenoid, then from there to the hose that runs from the standard BOV to the low pressure side, (between turbo and AFM).

ok.. well i got it all sorted the other night..the key is the t-piece between the intake side and the wastegate - the stock solenoid hangs off that, and its different to my EBC configuration where it sits in between. Now rises to a solid 7psi

In the aid of providing a useful resource, i've posted a couple of pix of how I installed it

All was inspected and passed by the EPA correctly :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...