Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I searched the tut section, but couldnt find it.. unless i suck at searching!! hahah

So anyone got any steps and perhaps pics?

Is it simple process?

how long would it take?

I have got all the necessary sensors etc..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194551-how-to-install-an-oil-temp-guage/
Share on other sites

I'd say the sump is a little less accurate, but easy to do. I only use the guage to see changes in heat as opposed to exact temperatures. I'm very used to where it normally sits under different tyres of driving and it reacts very quickly to changes :dry:

Ahh i see.. well i might just install it at the normal spot..

But anyone know where i can get a jap brand sandwhich plate from?

the ones from justjap dont fit properly for jap brand guages..

Silly question...

If you have an oil cooler...where would be the best place you put the sensor?

Edit - Sidd - what type of guage did you get? and where are you mounting the guage in the car?

sidd, how do you know you need a special sandwich plate. you can get a greddy one for $150 i know. but japan use metric like us so i dont see how it would be any different.

weevil, if you have an oil cooler kit with a filterrelocator then one of your devices where the hoses attache will have sensor holes in there. i know this is the case with the greddy/trust ones and also the just jap ones...i just bought a jjr one! :w00t:

Well a few friends of mine have used those cheapy plates on there jap brand guages and they either dont fit (the sensor thingy) or they leak.

So im taking there word for it.

Anyways so i found myself a greedy sandwich plate and the sensor probe fits perfectly :)

evil- going to put the guage in my twin A-pillar pod.

This is the guage i bought:

Gekko20night.jpg

Bought my boost guage ages ago (about 1.5 years ago) and now the oil temp guage :)

Edited by siddr20

the sensor for my gauges were 1/8 NPT thread.

so i went to pirtek, for a few bucks you can get a t peice brass fitting, sensor in one side, oil line back in the other

nice gauges. mine have colour and sound warning, and adjustable warning settings

tory029fr6.jpg

gauges018gv9.jpg

gauges022vo0.jpg

gauges029mu1.jpg

gauges042zr7.jpg

smoke face, blue or white led (changes with the wiring you set up, mine are white when headlights are off and blue when lights on.)

this is how they look with a decent camera, obviously in a xr6 turbo and not in my car though

tripodhrrj6.jpg

Edited by Granthem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...