Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the wastegate actuator is around the 7psi, but if you have a full turbo back exhaust you may get around the 8-9psi mark

Although my bros gets 7psi with no boost controller and he has a turbo back exhaust

Get a decent boost gauge (not a defi copy) so you know what boost you are actually running, and if you only want around 10psi get a turbosmart bleed valve or a gfb atomic boost controller (no more than 80bucks) and that will do the job nicely untill you can afford a ebc.

The stadnard wastegate actuator is actually 4.5 psi (on my standard car with the two stage bleeder disconnected).

really?!

im pretty sure its 5psi low, and 7psi high boost. and if you have a/m zorst etc, it might even be a little higher.

im no expert on the issue, but ive heard that from just about everywhere.

i havent got a gauge on mine, but its quite obviously more than 4.5psi. the power surge and the racket the damn thing makes when it blows off!

the stock boost level can vary from skyline to skyline, things like different mods can make a huge difference

My bros runs 7psi with nothing connect but a vaccum line (he normally runs a bar through it), but either way you'll need some sort of boost controller to get to the magical 10psi mark and a simple bleed valve will do the job

I'm about to fit up my new turbo back zorst (split front/dump pipe), fmic, apexi pod + heat sheild & CAI ...

What do you think boost will be with these modz?

I spose i wont know until I hook all this up what the boost is going to be but anything above standard without a retune of the ecu is going to cause my ecu to run rich isn't it?

Do you think reseting the factory ecu for now will suffice until I save enough to chip and tune the factory ecu? or should I crank out the credit card?

Hey MANWHORE how much you want for that actuator? PM me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
×
×
  • Create New...