Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so you mean the top and bottom of the pad when they are sitting in the caliper has some play and wear out the caliper?

Yep, there has to be some room for differential expansion of the pad and calliper. But too much and they vibrate.

Cheers

Gary

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good idea gary, would explain everything as i have tried many combinations of pads/rotors/glues and still have the same noise

still not 100% on how im going to fix it tho... so you actually welded onto the backplate of the pad thereby making it saw 1 or 2mm longer?

maybe i could use some silicone or rubber there to stop it? dont have a welder to try your method

just installed the rear qfm brake pads, took them for a bed in session

f**k me they squealed so hard like a blood curdling screech!!!!!! like the usual noise but amplified 1000times lol

will wait til they cool down and see how they go however its not a good start

just installed the rear qfm brake pads, took them for a bed in session

f**k me they squealed so hard like a blood curdling screech!!!!!! like the usual noise but amplified 1000times lol

will wait til they cool down and see how they go however its not a good start

Is that the HP-X or A1RM QFM Brake pads?

Also is that with RDA or standard rotors?

Screeching louder then when you had the Bendix Ultimates on?

Is that the HP-X or A1RM QFM Brake pads?

Also is that with RDA or standard rotors?

Screeching louder then when you had the Bendix Ultimates on?

It is with the 500deg ones on both front and rear now

they are the group buy slotted rotors so not exactly sure if rda or dba

yes i must say it has gone worse now (had cheapie brake pads on before not ultimates). I must try the stick on shims

im so over this squealing crap. I dont want to go to any brake place and ask them to fix coz i know they will say "machine rotors first" so theres about 100 bucks front and rear at a guess and i know this isnt the problem. Unless someone knows a place that will not dick me around

picked up some shims today to try pity they only had 1 set so i cant do the rears but will keep you updated

the shop rekons its coz i got qfm pads on... hmm i sense a trend happening

every shop rekons its the brake pads... ive gone through 3 different names and still the same so i rekon they are full of shit!

well took all pads out, roughed them up so they arent glazed

put adhesive shims on the front

hey guess what

they still squeal

going to get the rears to make sure its not just the rears squealing. too hard to bloody tell which ones it is

Does it real bad when going downhill like in a car park or the like

so im guessing on a downhill it would use the front brakes even more correct?

if thats true there goes my theory of its the back brakes

^^^ You must have tried nearly everything under the sun by now! lol I've got the same problem, but my squealing is amplified when the rotors are wet after it's been raining. But this is where it gets weird.... after I wash my car, I pressure hose the rotors through the wheels. I do this because I think the brake dust may be contributing to the squealing. This HAS helped somewhat and I get squealing probably only 40% of the time now. It doesn't always squeal either which has baffled me. Again like you, the squealing is only when coming to a stop.

Try running your finger over the rotor or around the inside spoke of your mags and see if you get a lot of brake dust. I also understand this was not an issue much with cars before they had to stop manufacturing asbestos brake pads. I could be wrong though.

I mostly get squealing first thing in the morning, and at the occasional traffic light. But after that it's pretty good. I definately get less squealing in the summer though I have noticed.

This probably isnt going to help much but i was told that the squealing is caused by the piston to shim/brake pad surface. Before i ran my caliper upgrade, i was using the following and had no squeal with DS2500s

Piston -> red rubber goo -> shim1 -> nissan pad grease (still there, just re-spread it out) -> shim2 -> pad

IIRC the goo needs to be left for 10mins. Maybe if you dont let it dry a bit you just push it all out when you first apply the brake. Is the grease you got especially for brake shims or is it just regular copper grease?

PM me if you want to come to Syd inner west to let me have a look. I'm no expert but a new set of eyes may help.

well omfg i may have fixed it

well anyway we will see how it goes in a weeks time

used grease on the pins and retainling clip where pin makes contact and in between shims. Also used the rubber anti squeal shims on the back of the brake pad and no squeal!

went for a 45 min drive and only had 1 real minor squeal out of the whole drive

maybe my joy will be short-lived but f**k does it sound good when theres no squeal

Hey tek!

Fantastic that you have finally resolved it. I also used the red goo and maybe for 2 months the noise was gone, loved it.

It is bad now though, after about 10 mins of driving, any soft application of the brakes coming to a stop (once in a while) it will screech like crazy.

Did you grease the two pins that align the pads correctly? just run grease up and down them?

And then grease the retaining clips, which ones are these? I am guessing those wire type clips, if so which part of them?

Finally, I take it from above that you also tried rubber goo on the back of the shim so the set up is like this:

piston --> GOO --> shim1 --> GOO --> shim2 --> GOO --> back of pad

just in surfers atm so havent had a chance to check thread.

Basicaly what i have now is

brake pad -> rubber shim -> metal shim1 ->grease inbetween->metal shim2

note, NO goo was used with this setup as it says not to use with the rubber shims

i grease the 2 pins and the clips that holds the brake pads in where it makes contact with the pins. NOT the springy metal bit that goes through the end of the pins as that is the safety mechanism and dont want that sliding out lol

i used wheel bearing grease but now there is a real light squeal after driving to QLD but not bad at all and if it stays like this i will be happy. will try with proper copper grease when i get my hands on some and hopefully it keeps longer

  • 4 weeks later...

^^ how is your squeeling going? i am getting squeeling sometimes, it's becoming just as bad as it was. I was thinking of trying what you did with the two pins but wanted to see how it is now and if it had come back for you?

also what grease do you think would be best to use?

any help would be great as you know my pain lol

just attached a pic so you can point out what you greased and exactly which parts if that's cool.

cheers

post-32581-1201616376_thumb.jpg

Edited by Onthehunt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah pretty impressive hey, good to see quality products not over-shooting their prices. That's what drew me to buy the hypergear turbo, just a shame I've never got the chance to see it in action
    • Thank you GTSBoy and MBS206 I have done the compression test with the motor out of the vehicle, reason for the test was to see if I needed to remove the head and do rings etc while its out. I'm in the process of respraying the vehicle and tidying up a few things. Story behind it all is I've just purchased the skyline and it was running when I got it, never drove it on the street though as I wanted to pull it down and do it all up again before registering it. the gentleman I purchased it from told me the motor has a forged bottom end and has a decent tune through it but I was going to pull the sump off anyway to see if it is a forged bottom end. that's why I thought id do a compression test beforehand. 
    • Man, I'm kind of amazed that the price of the turbo has not changed in 7 years. Everything else is inflating beyond reason, but not this? Good on Tao / hypergear I guess? Anyways, good luck with the sale!
    • I'm selling my brand new, in the box, never used Hypergear ATR45 - and I had some additions I paid for a few yrs back when I purchased it. Never ended up having the rest of the money to add all the mods at once, so I just ended up slowly selling each part. I originally had it internally gated, with the dump pipe, however I found it was incompatible with what I was going to use it for, so I contacted (I think Ken) from Hypergear, and he and I messaged back and forth & he got me to ship the turbo back, where they modified it & made it externally gated, and gave me the 5 bolt dump pipe attachment for custom welding. (Photos below) This turbo like I said has never touched the inside of an engine bay, it's completely brand new, never used, been sitting in the same box it arrived in, covered in plastic & all. Below are the photos of it: And while the guys at Hypergear were making it in-shop, they sent me some photos of the process: I'm looking at selling this just because I'm in need of the money right now, and don't have plans on modifying the 34 anytime soon - and from reviews & peformance sheets, this turbo had amazing results back when I was researching. The turbo was purchased in 2018 for $1.9k, with the mods I got added on. Looking at the website now, for the same turbo they sell (ATR45SAT), with the current addons it adds up to $1830 for the turbo Current addons included: - Bolted dump adaptor - Ball bearing CHRA - Braided oil feeding line So I'm looking to possibly sell it for around $1800, with shipping included in that 1.8k, It cost me around $120 to ship - so yeah thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone was interested in purchasing. Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...