Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

Can you guys who have performed a before and after feeling or rwkw increase, post your experiences. For my reading this would have to be the major increase in power, as its straight after the turbo. No use having a strangled exhaust after your turbo then mating up to a gigantic cat-back exhaust. Sounds like your defeating the purpose.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19522-your-experiences-with-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

there isnt any noticable kw increase however the car revs a lot nicer and feels a bit more free to drive if that makes sense. oh the car is also more responsive pick up wise and it also made my turbo spooling a lot louder. worth the money with hi flow cat of course

I noticed a gain on the 'seat of the pants' dyno... Maybe about 5-8 cheaks worth (or about 10 skid-marks in the old scale).

It also felt like it spooled up a little quicker and the boost didn't seem to drop off as much high in the rev range.

Worth the money I say.

J

I agree with the posts above. I started with a cat back 4" system and then got a front pipe and split dump. I didn't notice a massive HP gain, but it will come on boost quicker, and increase top end.

As for doing the dump/front first - if you're looking for most HP gain, then the cat back will be better value for money to start with; then do the dump/front pipe. That said, the closer the restriction to the turbo, the greater the effect on flow efficiency; for example, if i put a silencer in my rear muffler (reducing the effective diameter to say 2"), it will have less of a flow distubance and thus effect than having a 2" dump pipe and 4" cat back.

So, in conclusion, do the cat back first, then worry about the dump/front if you are strapped for the mulla. Bang for buck.

When I put my combo dump/front pipe with a separate wastegate line I noticed a fair difference. I already had a catback system too. Although I don't have any dyno figures to back it up, I feel it really helped my midrange as it felt kind of flat before hand.

Probably the best thing about it though was that the turbo was now audible ;)

EDIT: Almost forgot - My combo pipe was HPC coated, so that may have made a difference. Apparently it brings on boost sooner with the coating. If anything I felt it came on boost later, but harder.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...