Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling Issues In Drive - Please Help

GMan

By GMan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GMan Proficient

GMan

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

A very weird problem had just occured. i drive a r34 gt-t in automatic/tiptronic. i was driving down a slope when i started to notice that my car started spluttering. it was raining and i thought that some water had gotten into my intake so i just hit the accelerator harder. when i did that it spluttered more and started to stall. i pulled over and put it into neutral and just started to rev it out. put it back into drive and it just stalled. i tested out every gear and put it into reverse and it was fine. put it back into drive and it stalled again. gave it some revs in neutral and chucked it into drive and then stalled again.

all this resulted in me waiting 1.5 hours for a tow truck and then got charged $80 for a 5min ride :)

its at hills motorsports now and they are going to look at it tomorrow. hopefully it wont be too expensive. this is my 2nd incident regarding the rain....first was a misfiring/cant start issue.

any insight or information would be greatly appreciated!

cheers!

dave_1 Enthusiast

dave_1

Posted
Posted

being auto, and you said it works ok in nuetral and reverse, my guess would be the isolator/safety switch that wont let you start the car in gear?

Im no expert, but its just an idea. maybe its got a loose connection or exposed wire somewhere

GMan Proficient

GMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you have an aftermarket vent to atmosphere BOV?

nope...bov in standard position

One would think its electrical, if it only occurs in the rain. Have you changed anything recently? Do you have a vented bonnet? CAI? Try checking error codes.

no vented bonnet. the mechanics seem to think thats its electrical but still not sure yet. no cai.

if it's rain related, it must be water getting in to something.

Vented Bonnet = spark plug swimming pool

fully sick pod filter in front bar = wet muff .. sorry.. I mean wet MAF.

im not so sure if its just a coincidence with the rain that my car always seems to break down on. but yea last time i had the spark plug swimming pool incident regarding it so no vented bonnet. also my pod is at the standard position where my airbox use to be.

being auto, and you said it works ok in nuetral and reverse, my guess would be the isolator/safety switch that wont let you start the car in gear?

Im no expert, but its just an idea. maybe its got a loose connection or exposed wire somewhere

no idea.. its not that it wont start in gear..u cant start autos in gear.. it just keeps stalling in gear thats all except for reverse which is weird.

thanks everyone :D

GMan Proficient

GMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i just heard back from the mechanics. he plugged the scanner on and it didnt show up with an error code. he says that its either mechanical or theres a problem with the ecu.

just wondering if anyone else has had this problem before??

GMan Proficient

GMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

finally got a word back today after a whole week of it sitting in storage. he had told me that the computer was not giving out any power. power was going in but not coming out so he sent it away to get it tested.

does this sound right to anyone?

if the computer didnt work then the car wouldnt start right?

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

don't get it repaired.

buy another stock auto ecu from wreckers or these forums.

cost a fraction of repair..

but you're right.

the ecu controlls everything including the auto box.

so if it was faulty, it wouldn't run at all.

I don't know muuch about auto's, but there must be something that controls idle when in gear.

just like when the air con is on etc..

GMan Proficient

GMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea just got word back from mechanics couple days ago.

the 1,2 shift valve solenoid has failed. this means that when drive is selected, 1st and 2nd gear both comes on at the same time. now im just patiently waiting for the part to come in. im a little annoyed as he promised to have my car ready 2 days ago but he had ordered the wrong part for my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Yea pedal box and no abs
    • zoomzoom
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By zoomzoom · Posted

      It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Final thought for now. Obviously the reason I was in there was to check everything is OK cooling wise, pull out the radiator to flush it etc, but I have to say the factory has done a hell of a lot of thinking about air management in a way they never did back in the R chassis days. The Redsport/400rs have (from engine forward) 2 large shrouded fans - radiator (incl AT cooler) - AC condenser - Intercooler Heat Exchanger and Oil cooler. There are shrouds and foam around everything to keep it pretty well sealed, which is good in that they have it sorted from factory, and bad in that I can't make any meaningful improvements there. The second red sport pump water pump is mounted in front of the rad in the airflow, so I will see if there is somewhere else I can stash that (unlikely, it is tight in there). The horns which are also in the rad airflow will be moved somewhere else, and hey who needs 2 when 1 would work For track days, I can also remove the lights which would block some airflow. Factory has already taken the smart option of ducting all air that went through the oil cooler down and out of the engine bay. This pic is taken from below looking up, so air comes through the cooler at the top of the pic then hits the shroud and is directed down and out of the engine bay through the engine bay lower cover Which of course is good for oil temps, but doesn't help the rad as it diverts 10-20% of airflow away So, no big improvements to be made here, I'll flush the rad out and put it all back together.....    
    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It looks so incredibly busy in there! 😮 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Next..... That escalated quicker than an Elon and Donald break up! I'll post up a specific DIY for radiator removal on these, but all I'm saying is that if you get a workshop to change your radiator for any reason and they give you a $1000 bill for it, go and hug them and thank them for not charging all the hours it took.....what a bastard of a job. I'll make some adjustments as I put it all back for faster access in the future, but it was a nightmare.
×
×
  • Create New...