Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Im looking at buying some front vented gaurds that are 30mm wider than the standered ones. So im guessing my wheels now wont fill out the gaurds...

So i may look at some new wheels. What offsets and width should i be looking for?

What sort should i be looking at to fill out the gaurds more now... Want some dish... and under or around $2000...

Any help would be great..

Also looking at some rear over fenders... but how are these held on?? am looking to try and do it myself... ideas?

Edited by Adz2332
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195544-filling-out-the-gaurds/
Share on other sites

we usually grind the rear quarter back to metal, then use 3M Automix to adhere the fibreglass directly with the exposed metal... reinforce by drilling and resining through so that the overfender doesn't move around and cause hairline cracks in the paint a couple of years down the track. If the fender allows for it we may pop rivet as well for additional reinforcement, but not where the rivet has to be covered by filler to hide it, as a couple of years down the track the filler tends to shrink around the rivets and show dimples.

3M Website for Automix

we usually grind the rear quarter back to metal, then use 3M Automix to adhere the fibreglass directly with the exposed metal... reinforce by drilling and resining through so that the overfender doesn't move around and cause hairline cracks in the paint a couple of years down the track. If the fender allows for it we may pop rivet as well for additional reinforcement, but not where the rivet has to be covered by filler to hide it, as a couple of years down the track the filler tends to shrink around the rivets and show dimples.

3M Website for Automix

He's reffering to Front vented guards (replacement) not rear guards.

As for the front guards, it says 30mm wider, but they actually taper back into the door and the front bumper, so they are only 30mm wider at the middle of the guard then meet back to the factory bumper mounting points, its abit hard to explain, but when i had these guards on my r33, i could only space them out a extra 20mm or so, before rubbing. As for offset around +20 should do.. If using a bolt on spacer, go for the minimum size of 25mm, you should be fine, aslong as the car isn't overly low.

ahhhh pop riviting to the car.. hmmm no way you can do it without damaging panels??

Most people use this technique because it's cheap and it gives that 'tough' look to the car, but I don't think it's the look you're after.

He's reffering to Front vented guards (replacement) not rear guards.

As for the front guards, it says 30mm wider, but they actually taper back into the door and the front bumper, so they are only 30mm wider at the middle of the guard then meet back to the factory bumper mounting points, its abit hard to explain, but when i had these guards on my r33, i could only space them out a extra 20mm or so, before rubbing. As for offset around +20 should do.. If using a bolt on spacer, go for the minimum size of 25mm, you should be fine, aslong as the car isn't overly low.

+20? i reckon you could get away with lower than that

i had 17x8" +32 on the front of my r33, and it wasnt flush with the guards, so if you are putting on another 20-30 mm, you should be able to sneak in a gtr-ish offset rim, like +12, even if you have to add a degree of camber :)

that said, it depends on what widths you want as well..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...