Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellow RB lovers,

I didn't start the car for a week because I had to replace the crossover pipe. When I tried to start it up it was totally dead (i may of left one of the interior lights on). So I jump started it and it started up fine, I left it running for bout 2hours to charge. I then switched it off. I tried starting it again but now it just clicks when I turn the key and the internal lights flash.

I jump-start again but left if longer...bout 4hours, din work again. I repeated the process a 2-3 times, the damn battery wont charge!!! So I charged the battery using a battery charger, din work either. and also checked the fuses aswell!! What shud I do? Maybe a new battery but which one?

Please guys I need ur help!! :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195568-flat-battery-please-help/
Share on other sites

To charge your battery go for a little drive. It's better than just leaving the car there idling. The higher the car's revving the more it's charging.

Best to get a new battery. If that still doesn't charge up and gets flat. It could be a problem with your alternator.

buy a new battery. go with a gell long life battery or a sealed battery. but they are a bit pricey.

cut your losses man. stop wasting time and money. do it, and move one.

WTF. NFI Y It DOUBLE POSTED.

Edited by r33cruiser

like said, buy a new battery. those fluid type leadcell bateries will die completely if you run them flat. if you dont want to have to worry about that again, spend a bit more money and get a deep cycle, sealed battery, like offered by optima, or odyssey. these can be run flat, and recharged many times, without killing the battery. people get up to 8 years life out of a battery

check the fluid in the battery mate. its only like $3 to top up.

then take it for a spin for about 20 min..

Should be fine after that

unless you have to many dead cells in the battery

he should be running a sealed battery if im not mistaken.

just get a new bat if you can afford it.

he should be running a sealed battery if im not mistaken.

just get a new bat if you can afford it.

Cheers guys! I jump started it and took it for a run. when I came back and turned off the engine...it wouldn't start again. I'm gonna take it to a mate of mines to check if it is the alternator or the battery. How much is a good battery these days?

Edited by HaZ3inSKY

it wont be the alternator mate. hook up a charge light. u will be able to see the charge output from the alternator to the batt. u will find it is in the green.

for another alternator test. turn on your headlights, and rev it. now if the lights dim and brighten really noticably it MAY be the alternator failing to put out enough charge, but fairly unlikely.

Sounds like it was just the alt. regulator and/or brushes... they trick you into buying a whole new one? Your windings would of been fine for a car so young

Your lights wont dim if you rev it. They will dim if you dont cruiser

I let my work van idle for 5hrs last weekend, jump started it then went inside to watch the final round of the v8's then went out after to do some shopping and realised it was still idling away in the backyard, ahh toyota's - love em!

stupid nrma battery is still dead tho.

news flash... if you flatten a lead-acid battery and leave it that way for more than a day s it is CACTUS. if your battery goes flat overnight and you jump start it the next day and take it for a drive you'll be ok, if you leave it for a couple of days or a week then buy a new battery. don't even try to charge the flat one, it has sulfated and is no good.

lead acid batteries will last for years if you store them fully charged but leave them dead flat and they'll die after a day or two. after that they'll never hold a charge again.

probably the damage to your alternator was caused by trying to run the car's electrical system and charge a dead flat battery at the same time. should have just bought a new battery and put it in when you realised it had been flat for a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...