Steering Wheel Turns To Left

[YoungLine]

Ive got an annoying problem with my steering wheel turning to the left on its own..

i have searched the forum and the only thing i found is that it can be the wheel alignment, now im not to familiar with wat all those settings mean hoping sum1 can help me.

Now my steering rack had a leak in it so i had that replaced and a wheel alignment had been done.. and now the car pulls to the left no matter wat speed im going at wich is very anoying, whats more annoying is it pulls harder when i brake... wen i brake to a full stop the steering wheel can swing 45 degrees to the left on its own, so im constantly driving with my car pulling to the left, can some1 have a look at my allignment settings that i have attached and spot anything wrong cos i dont quiet understand it. Oh and i also had new tyres put on at the same time.

thanks

[_Ryan_]

who did it? IF i am reading this right, Your Right Castor is 4deg Greater than your left, And your RHF Camber is .49 lower than the left.

To compensate for the road, .25deg LESS positive caster on the right than the left is preferable, and .5Deg less Neg camber on the right than the left, with toe being equal. Same Rule applies for the rear with Camber, and equal 1mm toe in should help turn in.

You could take your car to GT-Suspension or Centreline if you are lazy, BUT I HIGHLY reccommend Traction Tyres in Rowville(10mins from the wellington rd exit of the monash) 9764 2811

I also recommend trackside in Kilsyth: Craig 9761 5557

-Ryan

[swanny180]

Does your 33 have any non factory adjustable suspension arms?

Because your camber and castor are greatly different between your left and right wheels, but you cant adjust these settings with the factory components.

They have adjusted toe like they should (stock toe rods can be adjusted), but yeah...

Has your car been in a front end accident at any point? Seems weird the settings would be out by so much?

[_Ryan_]

I assumed badly adjusted aftermarket arms...

Feel free to post pics of parts if you are new to this side of things.

[BHDave]

The pull is due to the caster difference. If you don't have aftermarket arms that are way out of adjustment, then you have a shot caster rod bush on one side atleast and should get them replaced.

as noted above, you cant adjust either caster or camber (on the front) from factory and they aren't that far out from factory.

To be honest even the dumbest alignment guy should have noticed a caster difference like that and pointed out that there is a problem.

And i disagree with ryan re the different settings side to side. From a performance point of view it is the wrong approach, from a tyre wear point of view it is great on a freeway where the old 3% crossfall mind set is still in force, but on most new local roads it isn't relevant anymore either.

[Duncan]

I'm with BHDave, there is something wrong and they should have told you. Your left front toe was rooted before hand so they should have asket why

Caster is clearly stuffed, unless you have aftermarket arms you probably have a bent lower control arm. And your rear toe is so uneven it is dangerous - but it looks like they just measured it and didnt set it.

take the print out back, get them to explain why rear toe settings are what they are, and why your castor is so uneven a the front.

[Potenza]

I would say the huge toe reading is from replcing the rack before the wheel alignment. The tyre wouldn't have lasted an hour with 23mm odd of toe.

The pull is coming from the huge difference in caster and also the difference in rear toe wouldn't be helping. I think you need to take it to someone who knows what the hell they are doing and start replacing parts as i think there may be something bent.

Edited November 29, 2007 by Potenza

[_Ryan_]

The pull is due to the caster difference. If you don't have aftermarket arms that are way out of adjustment, then you have a shot caster rod bush on one side atleast and should get them replaced.

as noted above, you cant adjust either caster or camber (on the front) from factory and they aren't that far out from factory.

To be honest even the dumbest alignment guy should have noticed a caster difference like that and pointed out that there is a problem.

And i disagree with ryan re the different settings side to side. From a performance point of view it is the wrong approach, from a tyre wear point of view it is great on a freeway where the old 3% crossfall mind set is still in force, but on most new local roads it isn't relevant anymore either.

Thanks for clearing it up dave!

Equal for handling, my alignment on my daily is a compromise between tyrewear and handling, and considering i drive on a lot of average roads, those differences are perfect for me.

-Ryan

[Simmo1985]

The attached document with the steering settings is gobligook to me. I know I'm probably wrong, but have you checked your tyres ? I only say this because a friend had both tyres on one side of his car let down, and then he couldn't figure out why his car was pulling to one side, silly bastard. The person also keyed a swastika on his roof.

So yeah... check your car for umm.. swastikas and flat tyres. Lol.

[YoungLine]

It was all done at the tyre factory.

The car hasnt been in an accident before, and there are no aftermarket parts.

Can u guys judge from a pic if the bushes r wrecked cos i took a pic of the left rod.

Umm so if it needs changing would it be more beneficial for me 2 just get aftermarket bushes or a set of rods.

and how do i go about fixing the rear toe does that require aftermarket parts also or just a decent alignment?

ill try getting my car down 2 traction tyres soon just have no money atm

Edited December 5, 2007 by YoungLine