Jump to content
SAU Community

Clicking From Engine After Spark Plug Work

dave_1

By dave_1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dave_1 Enthusiast

dave_1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i will give it a go, im sure on my rotor the thermo worked fine, not sure what size the stock rb20 fan is, but must be around 12in.

if it dont work , i will just chuck a normal fan and shroud back on. probly going to leave the shroud on anyways.

scarface Collaborator

scarface

Posted
Posted

damn some of your cars run hot, my r33 has stock fan and radiator with nismo thermostat and 1.3bar radiator cap and my average temp is 76 - 78 degrees, after hard long drives the most it goes to is 82, the hottest the car gets is when i turn it off and even then it only reaches 90 degrees maximum, usually around 88 depending on the day

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Scarface,

Cooler isn't always better.

I believe SK stated a while back the RB's make the most power around 85degree's.

Best fuel economy is also achieved around the same 85degree's.

If you are running the stock ecu it will most definitely be pushing additional fuel in to the car when its running temp is under 80degree's. Which isn't a good thing. :S

Aftermarket ecu and tuned to suit the cooler running temp if you run a nismo cooler thermostat.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Mine sits between 75 - 80degrees, depending on outside temp.

Haven't had a seriously hot day and the laptop plugged in though yet.

I might be swapping to twin thermos soon aswell, and ditch the viscous.

Viscous = power sapping mongrel... :rofl:

Plus, it looks like it's about to explode...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...