Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 141
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A guy we know on the Coast hat a RB20DETT and it bascially went like a bag of crap.....it looks to be a waste of money if u dont upgrade the engine example.....stroker kit at least.....or rb30 bottem end.

The simple fact was....in this case.....the this car im talking about went like a bucket of crap...i hope urs works out better.

It came from japan with the twin turbo setup. so it was all done good!

- Luke

hmmm...not parallel turbo setup ..but sequential. The guy on the coast with TT setup. Which two turbos were being used? Like I've been saying, im in Jamaica.... RB30 are NOT a dime a dozen around here :D . YES I know that its not the best bang for buck and NO I'm not trying to fool ppl into thinking i have a GTR :) . I just wanted a different approach on the tuning methods....so CT12s....ae these Turbo starlet turbo...how about that for use.

If used in combination with the Tomei 2.4L stroker kit, what then?

Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Meggala..where are you?

edit: hey...where's my medal for the almost 3 yr old thread resurrection <_<

Edited by 5hift

I don't know what kind of power they can handle, the 1GGTE's aren't that great an engine so I don't think people have done loads to them - all I know is they work on a 2L.. maybe CT12A's from a 1JZ - they handle 280hp stock so they musn't be too bad.. But then again if you are going to increase the capacity of the engine you might as well use GTR turbos...

I don't know what kind of power they can handle, the 1GGTE's aren't that great an engine so I don't think people have done loads to them - all I know is they work on a 2L.. maybe CT12A's from a 1JZ - they handle 280hp stock so they musn't be too bad.. But then again if you are going to increase the capacity of the engine you might as well use GTR turbos...

Something like this.

While rb30's may be rare in jamacia, freighting a turbo (or two) is probably a good option.

rb26 twin turbos will (according to my understanding) spool faster than an rb25 turbo AND push more air.

and they have a combined capacity of 2.6L, not 4.0L.

Unless you can figure out how to get more air in at lower rpm (I vote suprecharger - but then 3 induction aides...?)

I guess at the end of the day you would want something close to 3L worth of (two) turbo(s) (according to the factory) that will still bolt on.

Well, thats my uneducated opinion. good luck with the venture. Since you have the gear, I think you should just stick them on.

But if you wind up the boost, you will probably run lean.

good luck

Josh what I mean is for the same effort a better and simpler solution may be had .

I'm not against people trying things that may not have been done before but for me the end result needs to be good to justify the effort .

For me the drama with RB20's is that good torque is difficult to achieve without a peakier power curve than I want . I reckon the cheapest RB to buy is an RB30 SOHC and the ET exhaust manifold is (should be) easy to get . For power and torque on a budget a second series NA RB30 is hard to beat - depending on the expectations .

Turbos - could be an expensive suck it and see debacle . If I could find them the G11 Charade could be worth a look . Otherwise maybe Garrett T2's or small T25's . Garrett T28's off a GTR with smaller trim compressors may bring it on in similar fashion to a GTR . These use exhaust housings of compact dimensions because this set up is rather crowded on an RB26 . If you can use these housings and dump pipes it would save lots of time over custom fabrications .

Twins will have a weight penalty over a reasonably sized single .

Gotta go , cheers from Goulburn A .

Josh what I mean is for the same effort a better and simpler solution may be had .

I'm not against people trying things that may not have been done before but for me the end result needs to be good to justify the effort .

Yeh thats what I was thinking - If worthwhile gains to be had were there, then yeah go for it - definately.

Respec guys...I'll be sure to let you know if i pursue this buildup. Now im going to go find out if 26 Manifold will fit the RB20 ;)

Unfortunately it doesn't. the bolt pattern is different.

This may sound silly but is there enough meat in the head casting to drill and tap alternative stud holes ? I'd really like to know this myself because RB20/25 HKS cast low mount manifolds are easy to get compared to the rare RB26 version and I want to use the 26 head . Long shot I know but sometimes these things work .

Cheers A .

Rips (Rotorua Import Pro Shop) on this forum (and SDU) makes an adaptor plate which lets you bolt up the rb26 stuff to rb25 heads

edit/ he may also make a adaptor for fitting rb25 to rb26. Find his email and ask him :)

Edited by Bl4cK32
Hi guys, After blowing a turbo gasket, I’m in the process of fitting 2 stock RB20 turbos to my Nissan Syline R32 GTSt. All the work is been done at a engineering firm in Bunbury WA where my dad works.

We are making 2 separate manifolds one for each turbo. Front 3 exhaust outlets to one and the back 3 to the other turbo. There is going to be a balance pipe that goes between both manifolds to equalise pressure into both turbos. We see there is no need to have 2 wastegates so one will be blocked off. All water and oil lines are been ‘T’ . There will be 3” pipes coming off the back of the turbos converging into a 4” exhaust system. Air intake for the turbos will consist on the 1 pod filter, splitting into 2 pipes after the afm then to the turbos. The outlets for the turbos will converge into one tube entering the front mount intercooler then engine.

This project is well underway, and if all goes well will be completed in a month. Before starting this project I had 200bhp running a stock turbo with 13psi, with the intercooler and a 3” exhaust. I have had it down the drag strip with a time of 13.7 @ 167km/h.

I was interested if any one had any comments on how laggy it will be, the power output I might achieve, or any concerns about what im doing. All comments will be appreciated. thanks, Ewan.

I'm running an RB20DETT setup at the moment using twin T28 turbos.

Lag, well, very considerable. At 9psi, i was hitting full boost at around 4500-5000rpm, now im running 13psi boost and making peak power at 7000rpm...

i GUARANTEE you you will NOT make 280rwkw without some serious headwork and bottom end work, not on an RB20 anyway.

As for manifolds, im using RB26 ones, just using a custom fabricated adaptor/spacer plate blah blah blah, allot of custom stuff

What else have you got done to your car??? I would have thought that if a std RB20DET running the factory turbo can make 160odd rwkws at 14psi, and with a std R33 turbo they can make approx 180rwkws at 14psi...

That with 13psi out of a twin T28 setup you should be making considerably more power then what you are making. What injectors/fuel pump are you running, exhaust, intercooler, cat...i recall reading you are running a Microtech...what did the tuner say was limiting the power???

i have a big FMIC, 700hp fuel pump, GTR injectors, custom piping, custom exhaust with split dumps off each turbo, running into a 3" system, through a 3" hi flow cat, adjustable fuel pressure reg, microtech LT8 with handset.

i think he said boost, if i wanted 200rwkw he said u'd need much more boost *shrugs*, lol. At the moment i can't really afford another re-tune so im stuck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...