Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 141
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A guy we know on the Coast hat a RB20DETT and it bascially went like a bag of crap.....it looks to be a waste of money if u dont upgrade the engine example.....stroker kit at least.....or rb30 bottem end.

The simple fact was....in this case.....the this car im talking about went like a bucket of crap...i hope urs works out better.

It came from japan with the twin turbo setup. so it was all done good!

- Luke

hmmm...not parallel turbo setup ..but sequential. The guy on the coast with TT setup. Which two turbos were being used? Like I've been saying, im in Jamaica.... RB30 are NOT a dime a dozen around here :D . YES I know that its not the best bang for buck and NO I'm not trying to fool ppl into thinking i have a GTR :) . I just wanted a different approach on the tuning methods....so CT12s....ae these Turbo starlet turbo...how about that for use.

If used in combination with the Tomei 2.4L stroker kit, what then?

Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Meggala..where are you?

edit: hey...where's my medal for the almost 3 yr old thread resurrection <_<

Edited by 5hift

I don't know what kind of power they can handle, the 1GGTE's aren't that great an engine so I don't think people have done loads to them - all I know is they work on a 2L.. maybe CT12A's from a 1JZ - they handle 280hp stock so they musn't be too bad.. But then again if you are going to increase the capacity of the engine you might as well use GTR turbos...

I don't know what kind of power they can handle, the 1GGTE's aren't that great an engine so I don't think people have done loads to them - all I know is they work on a 2L.. maybe CT12A's from a 1JZ - they handle 280hp stock so they musn't be too bad.. But then again if you are going to increase the capacity of the engine you might as well use GTR turbos...

Something like this.

While rb30's may be rare in jamacia, freighting a turbo (or two) is probably a good option.

rb26 twin turbos will (according to my understanding) spool faster than an rb25 turbo AND push more air.

and they have a combined capacity of 2.6L, not 4.0L.

Unless you can figure out how to get more air in at lower rpm (I vote suprecharger - but then 3 induction aides...?)

I guess at the end of the day you would want something close to 3L worth of (two) turbo(s) (according to the factory) that will still bolt on.

Well, thats my uneducated opinion. good luck with the venture. Since you have the gear, I think you should just stick them on.

But if you wind up the boost, you will probably run lean.

good luck

Josh what I mean is for the same effort a better and simpler solution may be had .

I'm not against people trying things that may not have been done before but for me the end result needs to be good to justify the effort .

For me the drama with RB20's is that good torque is difficult to achieve without a peakier power curve than I want . I reckon the cheapest RB to buy is an RB30 SOHC and the ET exhaust manifold is (should be) easy to get . For power and torque on a budget a second series NA RB30 is hard to beat - depending on the expectations .

Turbos - could be an expensive suck it and see debacle . If I could find them the G11 Charade could be worth a look . Otherwise maybe Garrett T2's or small T25's . Garrett T28's off a GTR with smaller trim compressors may bring it on in similar fashion to a GTR . These use exhaust housings of compact dimensions because this set up is rather crowded on an RB26 . If you can use these housings and dump pipes it would save lots of time over custom fabrications .

Twins will have a weight penalty over a reasonably sized single .

Gotta go , cheers from Goulburn A .

Josh what I mean is for the same effort a better and simpler solution may be had .

I'm not against people trying things that may not have been done before but for me the end result needs to be good to justify the effort .

Yeh thats what I was thinking - If worthwhile gains to be had were there, then yeah go for it - definately.

Respec guys...I'll be sure to let you know if i pursue this buildup. Now im going to go find out if 26 Manifold will fit the RB20 ;)

Unfortunately it doesn't. the bolt pattern is different.

This may sound silly but is there enough meat in the head casting to drill and tap alternative stud holes ? I'd really like to know this myself because RB20/25 HKS cast low mount manifolds are easy to get compared to the rare RB26 version and I want to use the 26 head . Long shot I know but sometimes these things work .

Cheers A .

Rips (Rotorua Import Pro Shop) on this forum (and SDU) makes an adaptor plate which lets you bolt up the rb26 stuff to rb25 heads

edit/ he may also make a adaptor for fitting rb25 to rb26. Find his email and ask him :)

Edited by Bl4cK32
Hi guys, After blowing a turbo gasket, I’m in the process of fitting 2 stock RB20 turbos to my Nissan Syline R32 GTSt. All the work is been done at a engineering firm in Bunbury WA where my dad works.

We are making 2 separate manifolds one for each turbo. Front 3 exhaust outlets to one and the back 3 to the other turbo. There is going to be a balance pipe that goes between both manifolds to equalise pressure into both turbos. We see there is no need to have 2 wastegates so one will be blocked off. All water and oil lines are been ‘T’ . There will be 3” pipes coming off the back of the turbos converging into a 4” exhaust system. Air intake for the turbos will consist on the 1 pod filter, splitting into 2 pipes after the afm then to the turbos. The outlets for the turbos will converge into one tube entering the front mount intercooler then engine.

This project is well underway, and if all goes well will be completed in a month. Before starting this project I had 200bhp running a stock turbo with 13psi, with the intercooler and a 3” exhaust. I have had it down the drag strip with a time of 13.7 @ 167km/h.

I was interested if any one had any comments on how laggy it will be, the power output I might achieve, or any concerns about what im doing. All comments will be appreciated. thanks, Ewan.

I'm running an RB20DETT setup at the moment using twin T28 turbos.

Lag, well, very considerable. At 9psi, i was hitting full boost at around 4500-5000rpm, now im running 13psi boost and making peak power at 7000rpm...

i GUARANTEE you you will NOT make 280rwkw without some serious headwork and bottom end work, not on an RB20 anyway.

As for manifolds, im using RB26 ones, just using a custom fabricated adaptor/spacer plate blah blah blah, allot of custom stuff

What else have you got done to your car??? I would have thought that if a std RB20DET running the factory turbo can make 160odd rwkws at 14psi, and with a std R33 turbo they can make approx 180rwkws at 14psi...

That with 13psi out of a twin T28 setup you should be making considerably more power then what you are making. What injectors/fuel pump are you running, exhaust, intercooler, cat...i recall reading you are running a Microtech...what did the tuner say was limiting the power???

i have a big FMIC, 700hp fuel pump, GTR injectors, custom piping, custom exhaust with split dumps off each turbo, running into a 3" system, through a 3" hi flow cat, adjustable fuel pressure reg, microtech LT8 with handset.

i think he said boost, if i wanted 200rwkw he said u'd need much more boost *shrugs*, lol. At the moment i can't really afford another re-tune so im stuck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...