Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Problems

Wogan

By Wogan,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I made a couple posts in the "car not accellerating propperly" thread, but still having problems with my car. It's a 1990 R32 gts-t

Here are my current modifications:

pod filter

3" cat-back exhaust

FMIC

Here is my problem:

When the car is hot, if i accellerate hard, the engine pops and misfires at about 3500rpm. Only happens under load and only when i've been driving for about 5 mins or so and it's nice n warm.

Here's what i've done so far to try and fix it:

Upgraded fuel pump to one from an R33 GTR

New spark plugs

Replaced coils with 2nd hand ones from another 32 gts-t

Not sure what's going wrong.. seems like it's a fuel or ignition problem, but i can't quite tie it down. I put in a fuel mixture display kit from Jaycar to see if it was rich or lean when it spits n pops, but the lights just flash from lean to rich and back over n over again.

I'm pretty much out of ideas. Maybe i need to upgrade coils. Maybe i should try regapping the spark plugs.. i really don't know anymore.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. May end up that i'll just have to take it to a garage with a dyno to get it diagnosed. better start saving my $$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/
Share on other sites
Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

put in an autotechnica fuel pressure regulator.. i don't recommend them.. crappy cheap parts, broke in a couple places, but managed to get it working in the end.

fuel pressure was only 35psi when idling.. upped it to 60psi at idle and seems to have fixed the problem.. more testing (aka fanging it) needed, but signs look good.

Thanks Gaz n Pal for the suggestions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3509249
Share on other sites
Pandaah32 Rookie

Pandaah32

Posted
Posted (edited)

try a new air flow meter.....

my afm was dicky when the car got hot and i did all the usual 'obivous' quick fixes such as

-changed my igniter module

-changed all 6 coilpacks

-put in new plugs and gapped them to .6mm

-changed air filter and changed fuel filter

problem ended up being the air flow meter was faulty.... give ben at KYP a call

Edited by Pandaah32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3515414
Share on other sites
Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hahaha.. maybe you can donate me the cash mr engineer sir.

but yeah.. me n Steve found tonight that my coils are arcing onto the block seems the "new" coils were about the same condition as the old ones. gonna araldite them and reduce the plug gap.. should do the trick.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3518287
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I've got a set of standard 32gtst coils doing nothing other than taking up space.. they were working well enough to make 245rwhp on the RB20 :nyaanyaa:

Or a set of splitfired aren't too pricey, I got mine for $515 delivered I think it was.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3518768
Share on other sites
Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok this is really annoying me now.. problem is still happening with araldited coils and spaller plug gaps.. gonna try air flow meter next.. Were you getting the same symptoms when your airflow meter was faulty Pandaah?

next to try after that will be ignition module.. how do i go about testing that?

Edited by Wogan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3520809
Share on other sites
Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

another thing i find interesting is that my car is making about 12psi of boost without a boost controller installed.. inspected the wastegate actuator and the hose feeding it, but they seemed fine. The previous owner hadn't done much work to the car and didn't have a working boost gauge.

could it be that i'm getting too much boost and the standard ECU is cutting the fuel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3520822
Share on other sites
gazza750 Veteran

gazza750

Posted
Posted
ok this is really annoying me now.. problem is still happening with araldited coils and spaller plug gaps.. gonna try air flow meter next.. Were you getting the same symptoms when your airflow meter was faulty Pandaah?

next to try after that will be ignition module.. how do i go about testing that?

borrow one from someone else or throw it on a dyno for a full diagnostic run

if your running stock ecu they can check what the prob is if they have the software

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195931-car-problems/#findComment-3520849
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...