Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R33 is getting terrible fuel economy of 190-250 with 50 city trafic 50% freeway (190 driving normal, 250 driving miss daisy the whole time), and its really starting to give me the shits. Car has usual 200rwkw mods runing a PFC tuned by RE Customs

What I have done so far:

Made sure it was not my driving

Checked accuracy of fuel guage and speedo

Replaced 02 sensor

Cleaned AAC valve

Cleaned AFM

Got RE Customs to make sure the tune was spot on, they said it is now perfect, they checked for fuel leaks and found none, they said it would not be the cat because car is not down on power at all and drives very well.

The only suggestion the had was an injector(s) could be leaking (they noted the idle is somewhat rough) and this could be causing the problem.

So does anyone have any suggestions as to what else might be causing this problem before i spend the time and money getting the injectors checked.

Cheers

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

try replacing the fuel filter aswell, i replaced different items every few thousand kms and noticed an increase in kms from a tank each time, now im getting between 600-700km (highway) consistently from a tank (mine is stock standard though). I replaced fuel filter, O2, air filter, cat (and exhaust), spark plugs and went from 350 to where i am now (600-700)

^^^ WTF would you do that for? Any problems that caused you to do those two things?

190-250 is terrible dude, bloody terrible. I have this feeling the problem will be a leaking injector, but to replace with stock seems like such a waste of $. and I dont have the cash for some 750cc's and a retune just at the moment.

Edited by stolen_s15

get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned would be my next move. I had mine done by a mobile injector cleaner goy, came around, took about 2 hours.

Edited by chook
get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned would be my next move. I had mine done by a mobile injector cleaner goy, came around, took about 2 hours.

I like that idea.

What was the cost mate? Do you know if they are able to give you a report on the flow of the injectors?

Cheers

*EDIT*

Seems that around $30 per injector on site is the going rate.

Edited by stolen_s15

As above, could be a faulty coolant temp sensor (tells the ecu to run rich until the car is warm)

Another possibly is check your brake drag (jack car up and spin wheels freely). Handbrake might of dropped a spring or maybe even ceased a caliper piston??? Both happened to my VL :P

Edited by Jmaac

Had same prob with my R33 GTST and turned out to be O2 sensor. Heres a couple more ideas:

Pull the spark plugs out.

If its running really rich they will look like they are really black and very sooty.

If they are ALL black then its not a leaking injector. Its more likely some sensor error or the ECU dumping fuel in for some reason.

If only ONE is black then look at that cylinder. You would notice a missfire on that cylinder.

If NONE of them are black and your getting bad economy then..... NO Idea.

BTW I had a missfire when the O2 sensor was dead. Missfired from running too rich. AFR's were 9.7 to 10.2 when cruise. 250ks to tank.

my pesonal experience is different. before i was getting 400+kms per tank. now ive replaced02 sensor and sparkies and im only getting 250-300ish!!!!

and still stock ecu etc.

Just finished a full tank after the ecu 'touch up' by RE customs. I manged to get 310km and 1/4 of that was done on the dyno, so it has made a decent improvement.

I CBF changing the fuel filter and checking the plugs the w/end but will do it next week and see what happens.

Nick

well i just got 675km (9.5L/100km) from that previous tank of petrol, that should be some incentive to stop being so lazy and change the filters ;)

Only just read then that yours is 200kw, mine is stock standard apart from the exhaust but that extra 50kw shouldn't cause that much different in fuel usage

well i just got 675km (9.5L/100km) from that previous tank of petrol, that should be some incentive to stop being so lazy and change the filters :/

Only just read then that yours is 200kw, mine is stock standard apart from the exhaust but that extra 50kw shouldn't cause that much different in fuel usage

Okay, but there is no way you have managed that in Melbourne peak hour traffic. I might drive my car to Sydney for Xmas, so I'll see if I can tailgate a truck the whole way and beat that figure :(

I will change the filters and plugs this week sometimes, I know I'm just being lazy. But after the work Xmas party Friday night I lost all enthusiasm do do anything but sleep it off!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...