Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had 18x9.5 +12 TE37's on my R33 GTR and they fit pretty well, filled out the guards nicely, but with a 275/35/18 I got some minor scrubbing on full lock so I'd go a slightly thinner tyre...mine are currently for sale if you are interested :rofl:

I now have 19x10.5 +22 CE28's and they fill the guard out just as well, I wanted the fatness and that tough dished look of the 10.5 but didn't want the scrubbing so I went with a 265/30/19 for a bit of a stretched look and they don't touch anywhere, ever now!

Edited by QIK_GTR
I had 18x9.5 +12 TE37's on my R33 GTR and they fit pretty well, filled out the guards nicely, but with a 275/35/18 I got some minor scrubbing on full lock so I'd go a slightly thinner tyre...mine are currently for sale if you are interested :P

I now have 19x10.5 +22 CE28's and they fill the guard out just as well, I wanted the fatness and that tough dished look of the 10.5 but didn't want the scrubbing so I went with a 265/30/19 for a bit of a stretched look and they don't touch anywhere, ever now!

thanks man, would 18x10.5" rims +15 be cutting it close?on say a 265 rim?

can you post some pics of your ce28s, must look crazy!

thanks man, would 18x10.5" rims +15 be cutting it close?on say a 265 rim?

can you post some pics of your ce28s, must look crazy!

I'm not really the right person to be asking about offsets, I made a thread in here to ask about them myself!

I'll try and get some pics taken this weekend, would prefer to wind the coilovers down a little beforehand to get the stance right, so we'll see how I go.

please post pics peiople, really need to see what im getting.......even the ce28 pictures would be great help.....

Question...

would a 18 x 9.5" et12 te37 wheel have the more deep spoke look compared to a 18 x 10.5" et15 te37 wheel? since the offset is less on the et12, but the rim size is bigger on the 10.5" obviously....which one will give the more deeper spokes look?

ok, well here is a pic I took yesterday arvo, not really one I want to post because the car is filthy, the wheels are filthy and I want to lower it more, by quite a few turns on the coilovers to get the stance just right.....but just to give you an idea.

CE28N 19x10.5 +22 265/30/19 Federal SS-595

qikkie009111.jpg

TE37 18x9.5 +12 275/35/18 Falken - could've been lower for a tougher look, but 18s are bit small in my opinion on a 33

untitled-1.jpg

TE37 19x? +? - just to show you how a 19in looks with what I call the right height, whereby the front has a little clearance from guard to tyre but the rear sits nicely just on top of the tyre.....which is the whole reason I went with 265s not any wider.

post-69484-11816566592030866021.jpg

Well I don't use the car to go round corners overly fast, I'm more of a straight line guy, but yes I hear what you are saying.....but I'm talking maybe 1-1.5cm up front and maybe a tiny bit more down the back, just to have the guard sit a little closer to the tyre, maybe a looks thing, but I don't forsee me doing many mountain runs where its going to have a major impact!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...