Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 JZX100 Chaser

Always serviced, by C-Red Tuning - Perth

Make: Toyota

Model: JZX100

Milage: 48000kms - Genuine - VERY LOW!!!

Transmission: Auto

Colour: Black/Green

Location: Perth, WA

Complied? YES

RWC supplied? YES

Currently registered? YES

Price: 32,990

Contact: Andrew 0438 943 135

Comments / Modifications:

Well I know I just got it

But Europe is calling, Have just paid for my trip - 3/12

This car will make someone seriously happy,

If you dont like the price, go Jump... :rofl: - In a nice way

This car was built using genuine parts, and has plenty of power to back up the looks!!

Mulitple Autosalon Winner

Front Cover issue cars in many Magazines.

No trouble from Police - Very sleek, BMW 5 series like ;)

Specs and pics below

Genuine Wise Sports Body kit

Genuine Wise Sports Wide front fenders

Bomex Side Mirrors

VS-KF Shadow Chrome 19 x 8+20(f), 9+20®

RG Coilovers

HKS Full Turbo kit

HKS 3040 Turbine

HKS High Mount Manifold

HKS 50mm Wastegate

HKS Dump Pipe

HKS Turbo back Exhaust

SARD 530cc inj

NISMO 2-way LSD

Apexi Power FC, w/AP Engineering software (For auto etc)

K&N Air Filter

CUSCO Under Car sway/Strut thingo..lol

CUSCO Castor Rods

GReddy FMIC and piping

GReddy Boost gauge

Greddy Water temp gauge

GReddy E-01 Electronic Boost Controller

Embelton overflow catch can

HID Headlights

Clear Side Indicators

Tinted Rear tailights

Alpine CD/MP3 Deck

7" Fold out screen

2 x Huge Trantula Amps

2 x Kicker solobaric subs

Downlights facing upwards...

Some digital reader with numbers and shit

CUSTOM boot install inc Louis vitton etc

Price:

32,990 ono

Cheers

Will Trade! PM me your offer - nothing stupid.

2953456.jpg

2953442.jpg

2953454.jpg

2953460.jpg

34e9mat.jpg

Edited by GTRboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196390-pimped-out-jzx100/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...