Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought some 350z track rims the other week, they are 18x8 with a +30 offset. The tyres are 245/45 on the front and 265/45 on the rear.

Grip has improved incredibly since replacing the stock rims/wheels. The tyres are bridgestones potenzas from the top of my head, which although are very noisy seem to be quite good (took car for a drive in the wet the other night and had a lot more traction than I usually do).

The only problem is the rear tyres scrape along the guards when turning into my driveway and negotiating other bumpy/uneven turns. The front tyres can also as well. These problems occur when the weight balance of the car is out of wack, i.e. the car is sitting on uneven ground, suspension is higher/lower on either side.

I want to get into some track work early next year, if I stick with my current imagine taking corners at 80k/phr will cause the tyres to scrape on the opposite side to the way I'm turning (due to body roll).

Brings me to my options:

1) Replace tyres with smaller profile tyres. This will return my speedo to normal (currently out of whack by about 10%) and should stop my scraping problems. Would I get anything trying to sell the tyres? About 60% tread?

2) Roll guards. If my rear guards were rolled it would probably fix the problem there, however even if I roll my front guards I don't think it will stop them from rubbing. This also runs the risk of paint being cracked during the process.

3) Sell the wheels/tyres and replace. If I went down this track I'd want 17" lighter weight wheels, something that looks half decent and doesn't cost a fortune.

When I changed to the 350z rim I felt a slight decrease in stopping / acceleration. The rims apparently weigh 18kg each (without tyres). So a lighter rim would have more than one advantage.

What do you guys recommend?

If I were you, I would just get smaller tyres. If they still rub, roll the guards. If you don't care about the speedo, just roll.

It really depends if you like the wheels or not. Do you regret buying them? If you do, then maybe try a new set of wheels.

Don't regret buying them, got them at a good price. The tyres and wheels fill the guards nicely (a little too nicely it seems haha).

It'll probably cost me around $800+ to replace the tyres on all four wheels.

If I sell the rims (probably get near $1000), I can then spend an extra $800 (total 1800) on new rims /w tyres.

Guess I'll just keep my eyes open, see if any other wheels pop up that I like.

Just get your guards rolled. Should cost about $45 per guard. Might solve the problem, if it doesn't the part of the tyre where it's rubbing will eventually get worn out and stop (assuming that the rubbing doesn't kill your tyres altogether).

Im running 17 x 9 +30 r33 gtr rims on my 32 no scrub when its not super low i.e gap between tyre and guard with 235/45

all round is your car super low?

you could probably get away easily with just bashing in the lip

Yeah the rear guard lips will be ok if rolled upwards.

The front guards won't be I don't think. When the steering wheel is turned to the right or left and the front wheels stick out the side, the gap between the top of the tyre and the guard is very small. Don't even think you'd be able to roll it as the bit that's almost touching is not the "inner lip" area, but the actual outside guard area itself. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow to better show what I mean. This area is only a problem if turning at speed causing body roll.

So I think I might either need to get lower profile tyres, or new wheels altogether. Car is not super low, definitely lower than standard though.

There is an old saying...

"Dont Buy wheels to fit the car. Make your car fit the wheels"

Roll guards, then maybe increase spring rates if It still is a problem (Makes it harder for the tyres to get close to the guards under load, and Still cheaper than new tyres), then drop the bastard another half inch!

Edited by R31 drift pig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...